Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van

I have breakfast on the rooftop terrace. After breakfast, I get on the bus for a fairly long drive to Van. Along the way, we pass the vast grain fields. Shepherds lead their flocks of sheep across the grassy plains. As I get closer to Lake Van, the ruggedness of the mountains increases. The rolling hills transition into rocky peaks. The road follows a fast-flowing river through the valley. As on many roads in eastern Turkey, work is underway here to expand the road to two lanes in each direction. For kilometers, construction continues. Viaducts are being built, rocks excavated, and some sections covered.

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It’s hard to imagine how such a winding mountain road can be widened. I only don’t understand why the work is done along the entire length at once instead of section by section. The roadwork slows us down considerably. Murat often has to drive very slowly to pass the construction. When we pass the village of Bitlis, we stop briefly for lunch. I enter a local restaurant. The waiter explains the menu because there is no international version. I choose an Adana kebab—a spicy wrap with meat. Although eating meat twice a day is starting to wear on me, this wrap tastes excellent. Outside, I look for a toilet and pay 1 lira to a man. I descend the stairs to the toilet. A little later, I find myself above a hole overlooking the river. I see the fast-flowing water rushing below me. As we continue toward Van, we soon arrive at the vast Lake Van. The lake lies entirely among the mountains. There is no overflow river; the water level remains stable due to evaporation. The Van region was severely affected by an earthquake last September. Driving into Van, I see large relief camps with container homes. I also see many houses with cracks. Between them are empty plots where houses once stood. Sometimes people live in tents on these vacant lots. Yet daily life goes on. In Van’s city center, there is little to see of the natural disaster besides some cracked buildings. I walk into the center. The modern shopping streets all look alike. It’s easy to get lost here. I notice that the people on the streets no longer have the typical central Turkish appearance. I find the people here have more of an Armenian appearance. In a small bar on the second floor, I order a beer. In the evening, football is on at the restaurant where I go to eat. Two important Turkish matches are being played simultaneously. The broadcast switches between the games regularly. Every time a goal is scored, there is a loud cheer. I believe the favorite team won. Everyone is in a festive mood. As I walk back to my hotel, cars drive through the streets honking loudly.