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Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)


China > Rainy Temple of Heaven

Dag 62 - Thursday, June 28, 2012

China - The Temple of Heaven in the rain

I pull the curtains open. I see people walking with umbrellas. It’s raining. Judging by the dull gray sky, it doesn’t look like it will clear up anytime soon. With umbrella and raincoat, I set out. Beijing immediately has a gloomy feel. Large puddles lie in the streets. I have to watch out not to be splashed by passing cars. On my way to the Temple of Heaven, I have breakfast in a small local restaurant. Using gestures and above all my Point-it booklet, I order a meal. I get a dumpling, a kind of porridge, and an iced tea. The porridge doesn’t really suit my taste, but the rest is enough for breakfast.

China - An image of a Chinese dragon in the temple

At least I’m dry for a while. At the park of the Temple of Heaven, I buy a ticket that also includes entry to the temples. Normally, Chinese people exercise and dance here regularly. With today’s rainy weather, there is little activity to be seen. The damp air hangs low like mist among the trees. I arrive at the raised road. In the past, the emperor walked over this hundreds-of-meters-long marble causeway from the sacred altar to the temple on the other side. Now, all I see are colorful umbrellas. I first visit the Imperial Vault of Heaven temple. This temple is surrounded by a circular echo wall. Just behind it lies the Circular Mound Altar. The altar consists of three marble tiers. Around the central stone at the top are exactly nine stones. Each following row has exactly nine more. There are nine rows on the platform. Nine is a sacred number. I walk across the raised walkway to the Temple of Heaven. The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests is a three-tiered temple. In the rain, the temple looks somewhat somber. It was built entirely without the use of nails. I leave and take the metro to the Lama Temple. Beijing has a good metro system. Fortunately, the metro stations are marked both in Chinese and English. That makes it easy for me to get around. Only when leaving the station, my pass won’t let me check out. A boy behind me explains that I have a single-use ticket and need to insert it into the machine. That works better.

China - The Tibetan Lama Temple in Beijing

The Lama Temple is the largest Buddhist temple in Beijing. The complex consists of various temples and reception halls. In the different halls stand large Buddha statues of the past, present, and future. One Buddha statue is 28 meters high. The information board next to it states that it is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the largest statue carved from a single piece. When I leave the Lama Temple complex, the rain has stopped. I put away my umbrella and take off my raincoat. I cross the street and enter the Confucius Temple. This is the second largest Confucius temple in China, built in 1302. Imperial mandarins came here to pay their respects to Confucius. The architectural style doesn’t differ much from the Lama Temple. Only, Confucius knew no gods. That’s why there are no deities or Buddha statues here. In the middle of the temple stands a throne surrounded by musical instruments. By now, I’ve seen enough temples for today. I’m ready for something different. I walk into the narrow lanes of the hutongs behind the Forbidden City. Unfortunately, this district has become commercialized. The street consists only of eateries, bars, and youth hostels. In one of them, I order a sandwich. Via the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower, two old towers from the Ming dynasty, I arrive at another metro station.

China - The Confucius Temple is the second largest Confucius temple in China

With one transfer, I return to the area near my hotel. I walk the last stretch. In the evening, I attend an acrobatics show. As I approach, I already see numerous buses parked outside. A real tourist show. Inside, the audience consists mostly of tour groups. The majority are Chinese tourists visiting the capital. The performance is impressive, though it doesn’t compare to the show in Dunhuang. The show ends with a motorcyclist inside a giant steel globe. I estimate its diameter at ten meters. When a second motorcyclist appears, the tension in the hall rises. Then a third, fourth, and even fifth rider enter the globe to ride around simultaneously. A wave of disbelief sweeps through the audience. Magnificent!

Public TransportEverything is used for transportation into the mountains
Cappadocia Hot Air BalloonThe balloon flies close over the rocks in Cappadocia
Giant Wild Goose PagodaA police officer in front of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda in Xian
Kaymakli Underground CityA heavy stone served as a door in Kaymakli Underground City

Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

Dag 1 | Turkey > The flight to Ankara
Dag 2 | Turkey > The mausoleum of Atatürk
Dag 3 | Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia
Dag 4 | Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations
Dag 5 | Turkey > Rain in Kahta
Dag 6 | Turkey > In dense fog on Nemrut Dagi mountain
Dag 7 | Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa
Dag 8 | Turkey > The Kurdish capital Diyarbakir
Dag 9 | Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van
Dag 10 | Turkey > The island Akdamar in Lake Van
Dag 11 | Turkey > The Ishak Pasha Palace in Dogubayazit
Dag 12 | Iran > Crossing the border to Iran
Dag 13 | Iran > Visiting a cave dwelling
Dag 14 | Iran > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 15 | Iran > Kurdish food in the park
Dag 16 | Iran > An afternoon tour through Hamadan
Dag 17 | Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom
Dag 18 | Iran > On the roof of the bazaar of Kashan
Dag 19 | Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh
Dag 20 | Iran > Wandering through Esfahan
Dag 21 | Iran > A whirlwind on the square
Dag 22 | Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad
Dag 23 | Iran > Local encounters in Shiraz
Dag 24 | Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae
Dag 25 | Iran > The desert city Yazd
Dag 26 | Iran > Helicopters in the desert
Dag 27 | Iran > The golden tomb of Imam Reza
Dag 28 | Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine
Dag 29 | Turkmenistan > Across the border to Turkmenistan
Dag 30 | Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre
Dag 31 | Turkmenistan > Long bus ride to Mary
Dag 32 | Turkmenistan > The UNESCO city of Merv
Dag 33 | Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara
Dag 34 | Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa
Dag 35 | Uzbekistan > The old palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 36 | Uzbekistan > Registan Square in Samarkand
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Football match Uzbekistan - Iran
Dag 38 | Kazakhstan > Computer malfunction at the border
Dag 39 | Kazakhstan > Hiking in Aksu Djabagly Nature Park
Dag 40 | Kyrgyzstan > Ala-Too Square in Bishkek
Dag 41 | Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park
Dag 42 | Kyrgyzstan > Tamchi on Lake Issyk Kul
Dag 43 | Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol
Dag 44 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight in a yurt
Dag 45 | Kyrgyzstan > On horseback through the valley
Dag 46 | Kyrgyzstan > Through the mountains to Lake Sol Kul
Dag 47 | Kyrgyzstan > Rain and snow around Sol Kul
Dag 48 | Kyrgyzstan > Caravanserai of Tash Rabat
Dag 49 | China > The Torugart Pass into China
Dag 50 | China > Kashgar, the city of the Uyghurs
Dag 51 | China > Cows and goats for sale
Dag 52 | China > By train through the Taklamakan desert
Dag 53 | China > Death Valley of China
Dag 54 | China > Ruins of Jiaohe and Gaochang
Dag 55 | China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang
Dag 56 | China > The Buddhist Mogao Caves
Dag 57 | China > The fort of Jiayuguan
Dag 58 | China > Temple of the Eight Immortals
Dag 59 | China > The Terracotta Army of Xian
Dag 60 | China > Cycling on the Xian city wall
Dag 61 | China > The Forbidden City
Dag 62 | China > Rainy Temple of Heaven
Dag 63 | China > On the Great Wall of China
Dag 64 | China > Meeting the giant panda
Dag 65 | China > There is no bus

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