
Home > China > In the Footsteps of Marco Polo > Travelogue day 51
April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)
It’s Sunday. In Kashgar, the Sunday Bazaar is held on Sundays. Nowadays, the bazaar takes place every day, but on Sunday it is larger. Only on Sundays, though, is the livestock market. In the past, both markets were held together, but today they are at separate locations: the bazaar near the city center, the livestock market outside the city. On the way to the livestock market, I see several vehicles with fully loaded cargo beds. Cows are packed tightly in the trucks. A tuk-tuk passes by, full of sheep.
At the market, all the animals are unloaded. The cows literally have to fall out of the trucks when they are pulled out. As I walk between rows of cows and bulls, there is lively bargaining everywhere. A little further on, the sheep are being traded. The sheep are tied to a rope with gaps of less than twenty centimeters between them. Entire rows are waiting for a new owner. It’s fun to walk through the market and take photos of the chaotic scene. I also try to capture the enthusiastic sellers. I leave the market and head to the Sunday Bazaar in the city—a large market hall. Three big arches mark the entrances. I walk among the locals along the stalls. Just outside the market hall, the bazaar continues out onto the streets.
I find this even more enjoyable to walk through. I think you can find anything you’re looking for here. At various food stalls, shashliks and dumplings are being prepared. Crossing the nearly dry river via a bridge, I walk back toward the city center. Along the river, a small section of the old city still stands. I wander through the labyrinth of streets and mud-brick houses. Here too, I see some houses standing empty. This neighborhood will likely disappear in a few years as well. I follow two boys through the old quarter and come out on the other side. I cross the wide boulevard. Undoubtedly, the old city once extended here a few years ago. Now, only large buildings remain. On the way to the Main Square, I decide to enter a local restaurant. The menu is only in Chinese. I take out my translation list and point to what they have from my list. I order a vegetable soup. Further along, heading toward the center, I think it will be easier to order fried noodles. I go inside. The girl is startled when I start speaking in English. Again, the translation list comes in handy. After paying, there is confusion about the receipt.
The waitress is convinced she already gave it to me. I’m sure she hasn’t. Without the receipt, I can’t go to the kitchen counter to collect my order. I think she may have given it to the previous customer, but I can’t explain that. The problem is solved when she goes to the kitchen herself to pass on my order. A little later, I’m sitting down enjoying delicious noodles. On the same street, I pass several hairdressers. I decide it’s actually a good idea to get a haircut. I choose a shop and take a seat. Using gestures, I show how I want my hair cut. The young man looks a bit uncertain about my hair type. Chinese hair is much coarser. He mainly starts with the clippers. On top, he tries something with what seems to me a blunt pair of scissors. When he hesitantly asks, “Ready?” and I nod in agreement, he looks visibly relieved. My hair is washed at a small sink in the corner. Funny in retrospect. With my new haircut, I walk back to the hotel.