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Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)


China > Cows and goats for sale

Dag 51 - Sunday, June 17, 2012

It’s Sunday. In Kashgar, the Sunday Bazaar is held on Sundays. Nowadays, the bazaar takes place every day, but on Sunday it is larger. Only on Sundays, though, is the livestock market. In the past, both markets were held together, but today they are at separate locations: the bazaar near the city center, the livestock market outside the city. On the way to the livestock market, I see several vehicles with fully loaded cargo beds. Cows are packed tightly in the trucks. A tuk-tuk passes by, full of sheep.

China - The Sunday livestock market of Kashgar

At the market, all the animals are unloaded. The cows literally have to fall out of the trucks when they are pulled out. As I walk between rows of cows and bulls, there is lively bargaining everywhere. A little further on, the sheep are being traded. The sheep are tied to a rope with gaps of less than twenty centimeters between them. Entire rows are waiting for a new owner. It’s fun to walk through the market and take photos of the chaotic scene. I also try to capture the enthusiastic sellers. I leave the market and head to the Sunday Bazaar in the city—a large market hall. Three big arches mark the entrances. I walk among the locals along the stalls. Just outside the market hall, the bazaar continues out onto the streets.

China - Just outside the centre of Kashgar the livestock market is held

I find this even more enjoyable to walk through. I think you can find anything you’re looking for here. At various food stalls, shashliks and dumplings are being prepared. Crossing the nearly dry river via a bridge, I walk back toward the city center. Along the river, a small section of the old city still stands. I wander through the labyrinth of streets and mud-brick houses. Here too, I see some houses standing empty. This neighborhood will likely disappear in a few years as well. I follow two boys through the old quarter and come out on the other side. I cross the wide boulevard. Undoubtedly, the old city once extended here a few years ago. Now, only large buildings remain. On the way to the Main Square, I decide to enter a local restaurant. The menu is only in Chinese. I take out my translation list and point to what they have from my list. I order a vegetable soup. Further along, heading toward the center, I think it will be easier to order fried noodles. I go inside. The girl is startled when I start speaking in English. Again, the translation list comes in handy. After paying, there is confusion about the receipt.

China - Visiting the barber in Kashgar China

The waitress is convinced she already gave it to me. I’m sure she hasn’t. Without the receipt, I can’t go to the kitchen counter to collect my order. I think she may have given it to the previous customer, but I can’t explain that. The problem is solved when she goes to the kitchen herself to pass on my order. A little later, I’m sitting down enjoying delicious noodles. On the same street, I pass several hairdressers. I decide it’s actually a good idea to get a haircut. I choose a shop and take a seat. Using gestures, I show how I want my hair cut. The young man looks a bit uncertain about my hair type. Chinese hair is much coarser. He mainly starts with the clippers. On top, he tries something with what seems to me a blunt pair of scissors. When he hesitantly asks, “Ready?” and I nod in agreement, he looks visibly relieved. My hair is washed at a small sink in the corner. Funny in retrospect. With my new haircut, I walk back to the hotel.

BuddhaThe Buddha statue in the Lama Temple in Beijing
Terracotta Army XianThe large hall of the Terracotta Army in Xian
Kashgar livestock marketJust outside the centre of Kashgar the livestock market is held
Mao Statue The statue of Mao in Kashgar

Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

Dag 1 | Turkey > The flight to Ankara
Dag 2 | Turkey > The mausoleum of Atatürk
Dag 3 | Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia
Dag 4 | Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations
Dag 5 | Turkey > Rain in Kahta
Dag 6 | Turkey > In dense fog on Nemrut Dagi mountain
Dag 7 | Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa
Dag 8 | Turkey > The Kurdish capital Diyarbakir
Dag 9 | Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van
Dag 10 | Turkey > The island Akdamar in Lake Van
Dag 11 | Turkey > The Ishak Pasha Palace in Dogubayazit
Dag 12 | Iran > Crossing the border to Iran
Dag 13 | Iran > Visiting a cave dwelling
Dag 14 | Iran > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 15 | Iran > Kurdish food in the park
Dag 16 | Iran > An afternoon tour through Hamadan
Dag 17 | Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom
Dag 18 | Iran > On the roof of the bazaar of Kashan
Dag 19 | Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh
Dag 20 | Iran > Wandering through Esfahan
Dag 21 | Iran > A whirlwind on the square
Dag 22 | Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad
Dag 23 | Iran > Local encounters in Shiraz
Dag 24 | Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae
Dag 25 | Iran > The desert city Yazd
Dag 26 | Iran > Helicopters in the desert
Dag 27 | Iran > The golden tomb of Imam Reza
Dag 28 | Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine
Dag 29 | Turkmenistan > Across the border to Turkmenistan
Dag 30 | Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre
Dag 31 | Turkmenistan > Long bus ride to Mary
Dag 32 | Turkmenistan > The UNESCO city of Merv
Dag 33 | Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara
Dag 34 | Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa
Dag 35 | Uzbekistan > The old palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 36 | Uzbekistan > Registan Square in Samarkand
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Football match Uzbekistan - Iran
Dag 38 | Kazakhstan > Computer malfunction at the border
Dag 39 | Kazakhstan > Hiking in Aksu Djabagly Nature Park
Dag 40 | Kyrgyzstan > Ala-Too Square in Bishkek
Dag 41 | Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park
Dag 42 | Kyrgyzstan > Tamchi on Lake Issyk Kul
Dag 43 | Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol
Dag 44 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight in a yurt
Dag 45 | Kyrgyzstan > On horseback through the valley
Dag 46 | Kyrgyzstan > Through the mountains to Lake Sol Kul
Dag 47 | Kyrgyzstan > Rain and snow around Sol Kul
Dag 48 | Kyrgyzstan > Caravanserai of Tash Rabat
Dag 49 | China > The Torugart Pass into China
Dag 50 | China > Kashgar, the city of the Uyghurs
Dag 51 | China > Cows and goats for sale
Dag 52 | China > By train through the Taklamakan desert
Dag 53 | China > Death Valley of China
Dag 54 | China > Ruins of Jiaohe and Gaochang
Dag 55 | China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang
Dag 56 | China > The Buddhist Mogao Caves
Dag 57 | China > The fort of Jiayuguan
Dag 58 | China > Temple of the Eight Immortals
Dag 59 | China > The Terracotta Army of Xian
Dag 60 | China > Cycling on the Xian city wall
Dag 61 | China > The Forbidden City
Dag 62 | China > Rainy Temple of Heaven
Dag 63 | China > On the Great Wall of China
Dag 64 | China > Meeting the giant panda
Dag 65 | China > There is no bus

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