Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine

In the hotel lobby, I see a depiction of the holy shrine. With all the hectic activity of last night, I absorbed more of the atmosphere and the emotions of the people around the shrine than the shrine itself. A second chance to see it properly will be difficult.

Iran - A depiction of a war hero from the war with Iraq

In the morning there is no prayer, and I stand out more among the pilgrims. But the rest of the complex is also worth a second visit in daylight. I walk back to the sanctuary. I leave my backpack with my camera at the deposit. I enter the complex. Without all the praying people, the square seems even larger. A procession of singing men passes by. At the front is a flag bearer with a black flag. I suspect a funeral ceremony. Further on, I see a second procession approaching. The final respects are being paid at the mausoleum. I walk toward the ablution area under the golden dome and pass by the mosque. I am back in the square at the entrance from last night. I take a chance and go inside. It is busy again, but less hectic than yesterday. I have more time to take in the shrine. I see many hands trying to touch the shrine. I stay at a respectful distance. Once outside again, I wander through the squares full of praying pilgrims. It is Friday, and many pilgrims are preparing for the Friday prayer. Other travelers had been received at the entrance this morning by a guide. They were only allowed to visit the complex under supervision. In addition to the explanation, they also received an information package. I inquire at an information booth about the package, but the booth is only for pilgrims. Due to the language barrier, I get no further. I decide to approach a guide with three tourists. Startled, he asks if I wasn’t referred to the International Office.

Iran - A restaurant in an old hammam in Mashhad

“Not good, not good,” he mutters. His name is Ali. I decide to join him. He leads me through the museum and explains the complex. In the end, I say goodbye at the International Office and receive an information package. It is around noon, and most of the squares are occupied by worshippers. Because of the Friday prayer, Ali asks me to leave the holy complex before the prayer begins. Outside the complex, I step into a small restaurant. I let them advise me on a local dish of rice, peas, and meat. While eating, I reflect on the morning’s experiences. Outside the mausoleum, Mashhad is a normal modern city. I walk through the shopping streets, past clothing stores, toy shops, and spice stalls. Around the mausoleum, many shops are open. Further in the city, most shops are closed on Friday. In the evening, I go to a traditional teahouse to spend the last of my rials. Prices in this restaurant are a bit higher than what I’ve been used to so far in Iran. When paying, I leave the last of my rials and cover the remaining amount with a five-dollar bill.