China > Cycling on the Xian city wall

Today it is cloudy again, though still dry. At the South Gate I rent a mountain bike to ride along the city wall of Xi’an. The city wall has a circumference of fourteen kilometers. On top of the defensive wall lies a well-restored road about ten meters wide. The large stones are sometimes worn down or unevenly laid. As soon as I set off, I notice that the suspension in the front fork comes in handy.

China - Cycling on the city wall of Xian

When I reach the first corner, I see a watchtower. I sprint up the sloping ramp with my bike to the platform beneath the tower. Looking out over the battlements, I have a view of Xi’an’s busy traffic. At each cardinal point there is a large gate, with beautiful buildings in Chinese architecture beside them. I don’t have a lock for my bike, so I hand it over at a rental depot. It takes me some effort—mostly using gestures—to make clear that I want to visit the North Gate from the inside. Once inside, it is a bit disappointing. The space is completely taken over by souvenirs, leaving little to be discovered of the building’s structure. At one of the corner towers, I strike up a conversation with a Chinese family. We don’t get much further than “Ah Holland” and “Amsterdam,” but that’s already more than I expected. On the other hand, I also have no idea where in China their hometown is located. I take a photo of them, they take one of me. After an hour and a quarter, I am back at the starting point and return the bike. What a fun experience. I decide to continue on foot toward the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, just outside the city wall.

China - The city wall of Xian

When I run into some fellow travelers, I hear that the temple is closed today—it’s Tuesday. So I change my plan. I try to arrange a taxi to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, but with no luck. All the taxis in the city are occupied. I attempt to hail countless taxis, but in vain. I decide to take a bus instead. Out of the many bus lines, I unfortunately cannot figure out which one I actually need. I board a bus that at least heads roughly in the right direction. On one map it looks like the bus turns toward the pagoda, on another it doesn’t. It soon becomes clear that this isn’t the right bus. A Chinese boy helps me translate what the conductor says. She advises me to transfer to line 610. When I get off at the indicated stop, bus 610 arrives right away. I leave the bus at the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. The park around the pagoda is crowded. Many people are sitting in the grass or playing card games. By the large pond I see the pagoda rising high above the park, a seven-story tower. Unfortunately, this temple is also closed on Tuesdays. Numerous officers stand around the pond on guard. As soon as anyone gets too close to the water, a sharp whistle sounds. A striking sight, since so far my experience has been that the police keep a fairly low profile.

China - Street vendors

This is not what I expected. In front of the pagoda I quickly find a taxi to take me back to the center. The young driver has no problem driving fast. He speeds through the streets and pushes his taxi in between the waiting cars at the very last moment. In the center, I stroll through the artists’ quarter, visit a few shopping malls, and grab some food. Back at the hotel I get ready for the night train to Beijing. Due to Xi’an’s heavy evening rush hour, it takes me more than half an hour to cover less than five kilometers to the station. It must be terrible having to drive here every day. The station itself is also crowded. On the station square many people wait for their trains to depart. Since I booked a soft sleeper (better class), I am allowed into the VIP lounge. Around eight in the evening, the train to Beijing is ready on platform one. I find the right carriage and my compartment. After a shared glass of wine, I quickly dive into bed. Tomorrow—Beijing awaits!