
Home > Kazakhstan > In the Footsteps of Marco Polo > Travelogue day 39
April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)
I drive a four-wheel-drive jeep to the Aksu-Djabagly nature park. Lammert and Elmira are coming along as well; they will be guiding in the area. Almost immediately after leaving the village, the road becomes rough. The driver frequently has to shift into low gear. I’m bounced around quite a bit in the back seat. The scenery is beautiful—a gently rolling green landscape. At the park entrance, the barrier gate is closed. I see the park ranger mount his horse a little further along. At a trot, he brings the key over. Where do you see that nowadays? At the top of the gorge, I get out. I have a stunning view over the gorge and the Aksu River below.
“Aksu” means white river. I see the strikingly white water flowing through the valley. Lammert explains that the stream carries many minerals from the mountains, which colors the water white. Lammert heads down the mountain path first, and I follow him. The Aksu River lies about three hundred meters below. Along the narrow path downward, I see the most beautiful flowers. I have to watch carefully where I step, as the path is covered with loose pebbles, which can be very slippery. As I descend, the view of the river and valley grows ever more spectacular. Eventually, I reach the bridge over the Aksu River. The water rushes noisily beneath me. After a short break, I walk back up the same route. Fortunately, it’s partly cloudy today, making for ideal hiking weather. At a steady pace, I climb the three hundred meters back up. As I near the top, I see dark clouds approaching to my right. I also hear distant thunder. Lammert says this may not mean much—the clouds are still on the other side of the mountain slope. It’s uncertain whether they will actually cross over. I reach the top without any problems. At the old presidential teahouse—a simple shelter at best—I eat my packed lunch. Just as I finish, a fresh wind picks up, and the clouds start moving over the mountains. By the time I return to the guesthouse, a heavy downpour begins. I stay dry and open a beer.