Iran > Wandering through Esfahan

Esfahan is a wonderful city to wander through. The palaces, the mosques, the bustling bazaar, and of course the friendly Esfahanis. I walk towards the central Imam Square. It is still early and there is little activity. The grand Imam Mosque is just opening its doors. As one of the first visitors of the day, I walk under the imposing gateway. I enter the large courtyard and head towards the southern iwan with its minarets.

Iran - The Naqshe Jahan Square in Esfahan

Under the dome, there is a perfect echo. I stand directly beneath the beautifully decorated dome and clap my hands loudly. I hear the echo several times. Diagonal to the mosque stands the Ali Qapu Palace. This 16th-century building holds a dominant position on Imam Square. I go inside and climb the stairs to the terrace on the third floor. From there I have a panoramic view over the entire square and the Imam Mosque. The old wooden ceiling and pillars on the terrace are under restoration, so unfortunately, the music hall at the very top is closed. The throne room is accessible, however, and I admire the frescoes in this beautiful hall. I continue to the Chehel Sotoun Palace, the Palace of Forty Columns. It takes me several tries to find the garden entrance. The main gate is closed, and the side entrance is hidden behind a promotional fair for volunteers. From the garden, I photograph the palace reflected in the water. Thanks to this reflection, the palace got its name: the twenty columns doubled in the water, making it the Forty Columns Palace.

Iran - The Hakim Mosque the oldest mosque in Esfahan

Today happens to be museum day in Esfahan, so admission is free everywhere—but also very crowded. Inside, the palace is lavishly decorated with frescoes from the era of Shah Abbas I, depicting battles with Turkmens and Uzbeks. After visiting the palace, I continue towards the covered bazaar. From there I turn towards the Hakim Mosque, the oldest mosque in the city, with its remarkable brick entrance gate. I carry a leaflet showing a rooftop view. I ask a group of men where I can take this photo. “No, no, closed,” they reply. Another man sees possibilities, and after a small discussion (and a small tip), the caretaker reluctantly agrees to take me up. We slip through a small door and climb a narrow staircase. Soon I am standing on the mosque’s roof, overlooking Esfahan. Back in the bazaar, its long, shaded corridors provide coolness in the summer heat. I peek into a madrasa, where a mullah is teaching students. At a small stall, an old man gestures me to follow him. He makes me sit in a freight elevator, warns me about the greasy chain, and pushes a button. Upstairs, a weaving machine produces silk. It amazes me that such a machine fits behind a tiny stall. Proudly, the man shows me his apparatus, and I photograph him beside it. Later, I enter a teahouse: a plain room with fluorescent lighting and tiled walls. Despite the stark setting, it is full of men, most smoking water pipes.

Iran - The covered bazaar of Esfahan

Before I can order a non-alcoholic beer, I am asked to photograph the boy in the kitchen. While drinking, everyone stares at me, but I return their gazes with a friendly nod. I doubt many foreigners come here. I continue through the bazaar until I reach the Jameh Mosque, the Friday Mosque, the largest and most important in Esfahan. Since I will visit it tomorrow with a guide, I only take a quick look at the courtyard, where carpets for noon prayers are already spread out. I exit and walk parallel to the bazaar back toward the square. After visiting two more mosques, I find a small restaurant. I point at a dish on the neighboring table and am soon served abgusht. A young man explains how to break bread into the soup and wrap the meat-and-vegetable stew in pieces of bread. It tastes surprisingly good and satisfies my appetite after so much walking. Back at Imam Square, the crowds have grown. Local tourists ride in horse-drawn carriages around the square. I cross over to the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, a small mosque without a courtyard, yet with a magnificent decorated dome.

Iran - The famous Khaju Bridge of Esfahan at night

Dazzled, I leave again and head towards the luxurious Abbasi Hotel. In its lush courtyard, I sink into a chair and order tea with local sweets. I fear a high price, but it is reasonable. At dusk, I follow the Iranians to the historic bridges across the Zayandeh River. On the way, I am approached by Sahi, a young technical teacher. We chat as we stroll across the Si-o-Se Bridge, dating from 1602 with its 33 arches. Together we walk through the riverside park, where families picnic on the grass. Sahi is surprised that everyone greets me, but I have grown used to it. Further downstream, at the Khaju Bridge, the lights just switch on. Groups of men sing under the arches, while youths perch above the water. I take evening photos before sharing a taxi back with Sahi. He gets out halfway, and I promise to send him the pictures. Back at the square, I dine at a traditional restaurant, ordering fesenjan: a delicious mix of pomegranate, walnut, meat, and rice.