Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)


Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations

Dag 4 - Tuesday, May 1, 2012

I wake up early. Looking out the window, I see a large number of hot air balloons in the sky with the rising sun. It feels strange that we are picked up later. While waiting outside the hotel for transport, I notice some hesitation among everyone. Will this really work? When the van arrives, my doubts vanish. The driver quickly picks up the other participants. At a central point of Turka Balloon, we get out for breakfast.

Turkey - The balloon flies close over the rocks in Cappadocia

In a short time, other balloon passengers arrive as well, many of them Japanese. Just as quickly as everyone arrived, everyone departs again. I step into the last van. The van drives to a large grassy field near the campsite. Then it clicks for me—the balloon lands here. The people in the balloon get out, and we get in. The balloon then takes off again. The exchange happens quickly. Soon, I ascend with the hot air balloon. I watch the ground shrink below me. What a magnificent experience. I estimate that around twenty-five other balloons are flying along for a second ride. The weather is beautifully sunny, and the view over the valley is fantastic. Jim, the balloon pilot, maneuvers the balloon just above the rock formations. By adjusting the altitude, he steers the balloon—the wind currents move in different directions at higher levels. I spot the cave dwellings I explored yesterday. I see Uçhisar Castle and the famous mushroom-shaped rock formations. Beautiful! Eventually, Jim lowers the balloon into a valley. It glides just above the ground. Just before some rock formations, he lifts it slightly again. I see the balloon’s shadow on the rocks. After over an hour, I land. The support crew quickly arrives. While I am still in the basket, Jim lifts the balloon slightly. The helpers push the balloon onto a trailer. With another full balloon still on the trailer, the vehicle reverses slightly to reach a small grassy area.

Turkey - It is a real experience to view Cappadocias landscape from the air

There, they deflate the balloon. I step out and receive a certificate commemorating this special experience. Back at the hotel, I join breakfast on the rooftop terrace. I am just in time for the Cappadocia tour. Murat is today’s guide—a funny young man who speaks good English. He first leads us to the “mushroom mountains.” Heavy rock formations rest on narrower pillars. The lower layers of stone wear faster than the harder upper layers, forming the mushroom shapes. I wander among the mushrooms and visit some ancient cave dwellings. Further on, we stop at striking rock formations. I spot a camel, a llama, and a statue of Mary. The ruggedness of the rocks never ceases to amaze me. In the town of Avanos, I visit a pottery workshop—a typical local product. After an early lunch, I arrive at the Open Air Museum. I buy a ticket and follow Murat into the museum. The museum houses various rock-cut churches with beautiful frescoes. Murat explains the significance of the images in the Apple Church, the Barbara Church, and the Snake Church. I also visit the Karanlik Kilise, purchasing a separate entry ticket. Inside, the frescoes are very well preserved. The church is symmetrically carved out of the rock, and the biblical paintings cover the walls and ceilings. The extra ticket is more than worth it. My fingers itch to take a photo, but this is not allowed to protect the frescoes. Finally, I visit the Tokali Kilise opposite the museum entrance—a larger rock church with magnificent frescoes. Back at the bus, I notice I am getting tired.

Turkey - The mushroom mountains formed by erosion on the various rock layers

It was an early start this morning, warm weather, and a day full of impressions. But I haven’t seen all of Cappadocia yet, so I have to keep going. The bus heads toward Uçhisar. We pass Uçhisar Castle again. At the Pigeon Valley, we stop to admire the view over the valley. I see the cave dwellings still in use by pigeon breeders. I order a cola and enjoy the view from the terrace. As we continue, Murat stops at a silver shop. I’m not interested in this. I would rather pay more to the guide than have him earn commission through sales. I sit outside and chat with the drivers. Our last stop is the underground city of Kaymakli. The underground city has eight levels and was used for protection during attacks. People lived underground here as early as the fifth century BCE. The tunnels feature a clever ventilation system, providing oxygen throughout. I follow Murat through the narrow passageways, descending via carved steps. I pass old living quarters, kitchens, and storage rooms. Murat shows a defensive door—a large round stone disk that could close off the tunnel in an emergency. In the evening, I find a rooftop terrace in Göreme. While the sun slowly sets, I let the day sink in. On the other side of the square, I order some food. From the terrace, I have a view over the town. Unfortunately, the wind blows smoke from the fire pit across the table, making it unpleasant. After a discrepancy arises in the bill, even though everyone paid for their own food, I decide I’m done with this restaurant. I go to sleep.

BuddhaThe Buddha statue in the Lama Temple in Beijing
Terracotta Army XianThe large hall of the Terracotta Army in Xian
Kashgar livestock marketJust outside the centre of Kashgar the livestock market is held
Mao Statue The statue of Mao in Kashgar

Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

Dag 1 | Turkey > The flight to Ankara
Dag 2 | Turkey > The mausoleum of Atatürk
Dag 3 | Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia
Dag 4 | Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations
Dag 5 | Turkey > Rain in Kahta
Dag 6 | Turkey > In dense fog on Nemrut Dagi mountain
Dag 7 | Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa
Dag 8 | Turkey > The Kurdish capital Diyarbakir
Dag 9 | Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van
Dag 10 | Turkey > The island Akdamar in Lake Van
Dag 11 | Turkey > The Ishak Pasha Palace in Dogubayazit
Dag 12 | Iran > Crossing the border to Iran
Dag 13 | Iran > Visiting a cave dwelling
Dag 14 | Iran > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 15 | Iran > Kurdish food in the park
Dag 16 | Iran > An afternoon tour through Hamadan
Dag 17 | Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom
Dag 18 | Iran > On the roof of the bazaar of Kashan
Dag 19 | Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh
Dag 20 | Iran > Wandering through Esfahan
Dag 21 | Iran > A whirlwind on the square
Dag 22 | Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad
Dag 23 | Iran > Local encounters in Shiraz
Dag 24 | Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae
Dag 25 | Iran > The desert city Yazd
Dag 26 | Iran > Helicopters in the desert
Dag 27 | Iran > The golden tomb of Imam Reza
Dag 28 | Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine
Dag 29 | Turkmenistan > Across the border to Turkmenistan
Dag 30 | Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre
Dag 31 | Turkmenistan > Long bus ride to Mary
Dag 32 | Turkmenistan > The UNESCO city of Merv
Dag 33 | Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara
Dag 34 | Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa
Dag 35 | Uzbekistan > The old palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 36 | Uzbekistan > Registan Square in Samarkand
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Football match Uzbekistan - Iran
Dag 38 | Kazakhstan > Computer malfunction at the border
Dag 39 | Kazakhstan > Hiking in Aksu Djabagly Nature Park
Dag 40 | Kyrgyzstan > Ala-Too Square in Bishkek
Dag 41 | Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park
Dag 42 | Kyrgyzstan > Tamchi on Lake Issyk Kul
Dag 43 | Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol
Dag 44 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight in a yurt
Dag 45 | Kyrgyzstan > On horseback through the valley
Dag 46 | Kyrgyzstan > Through the mountains to Lake Sol Kul
Dag 47 | Kyrgyzstan > Rain and snow around Sol Kul
Dag 48 | Kyrgyzstan > Caravanserai of Tash Rabat
Dag 49 | China > The Torugart Pass into China
Dag 50 | China > Kashgar, the city of the Uyghurs
Dag 51 | China > Cows and goats for sale
Dag 52 | China > By train through the Taklamakan desert
Dag 53 | China > Death Valley of China
Dag 54 | China > Ruins of Jiaohe and Gaochang
Dag 55 | China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang
Dag 56 | China > The Buddhist Mogao Caves
Dag 57 | China > The fort of Jiayuguan
Dag 58 | China > Temple of the Eight Immortals
Dag 59 | China > The Terracotta Army of Xian
Dag 60 | China > Cycling on the Xian city wall
Dag 61 | China > The Forbidden City
Dag 62 | China > Rainy Temple of Heaven
Dag 63 | China > On the Great Wall of China
Dag 64 | China > Meeting the giant panda
Dag 65 | China > There is no bus

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