China > Temple of the Eight Immortals

Around half past nine the train rolls into Xi’an station. I slept really well last night. I grab my luggage and leave the train. Outside the station, the bus driver is already waiting. He can’t bring the bus all the way up to the station. I follow him a few hundred meters to the bus. Xi’an is clearly a fortress city. The rectangular city wall, fourteen kilometers long, encloses the old city center.

China - The lively street scene in the Muslim Quarter in Xian

As we pass the North Gate and drive into the old town, I see wide roads with large shopping centers. The Bell Tower forms the central point of the city. The roads from the four city gates all converge here. The hotel is just past this Bell Tower. Xi’an is a modern city. I cross the large roundabout at the Bell Tower through the underground pedestrian passage. On the other side, I arrive at McDonald’s, KFC, and Häagen-Dazs. I skip them. I walk into the Muslim Quarter. In the narrow streets there are all sorts of little souvenir stalls. I buy a sandwich and something to drink. I enter the Great Mosque. I am immediately impressed. In appearance, the mosque resembles a pagoda. The minaret, too, is built up in layers in typical Chinese style. Just then, the call to prayer sounds. Men move toward the prayer room. Unfortunately, this space is not accessible to me.

China - In the suburbs of Xian people play a game in the street

I have to settle for the amusing sight of all the slippers left at the door. I decide to also visit the Taoist temple. This temple lies just outside the city wall. It’s too far to walk, so I take the bus. Buses run constantly in Xi’an. My map shows several bus lines going eastward. But which one do I need? When bus 32 arrives, I see on my map that it goes reasonably close to the temple. I get on. Just past the eastern city gate, the bus turns off. I get out and walk the last stretch to the temple. There are no modern shops here anymore. The streetscape looks rather poor. In the background, behind the small houses, I can see tall modern skyscrapers. I think it’s only a matter of time before this neighborhood will also have to make way for modern development. A shame, really. I stop to watch people playing a board game on the street. Others are playing cards. There’s a friendly atmosphere. When I ask whether I’m heading the right way, everyone laughs and points me in the correct direction. No words needed. Soon after, I stand before the entrance of the “Temple of the Eight Immortals.” The architecture is Taoist, and it is also the largest Taoist temple in Xi’an.

China - The Drum Tower at night in Xian

As I enter, a procession of people comes walking in. A priest leads the way, followed by believers. They stop right beside me. With chanting, they continue the ceremony. I suspect it is a funeral ritual or ancestor veneration. This is common in Taoism. Crossing the courtyard, I reach the Hall of the Eight Immortals. A sacred place for Taoists and special to visit. Getting the bus back toward the city center is no problem—almost all the buses here go straight back to the Bell Tower. In the evening, I eat dumplings in a local restaurant. Normally you’re supposed to order dumplings at the counter, but I can’t make out a single word of the Chinese menu. Luckily, the cleaning lady speaks English and helps me place my order. I choose a mix of different fillings and sauces. A truly Chinese meal.