Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)


Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia

Dag 3 - Monday, April 30, 2012

In the morning, I meet Murat by the bus. He will be our driver for the next few days. Unfortunately, his English is limited. I can just say “merhaba” (hello) to him. Murat drives the bus out of Ankara in a southeastern direction, heading toward Cappadocia. The roads are excellent. I notice that buildings quickly disappear outside of Ankara. There are hardly any houses along the road. The road winds through hilly terrain. Trees are sparse, with only occasional shrubs. What stands out to me are the many gas stations along the road.

Turkey -

It seems as if there is a station every few kilometers. I do not see any customers anywhere.It is cloudy outside. A shame for Cappadocia, as I hope to take a hot air balloon ride tomorrow morning. Hopefully, the weather will be good enough for the flight. After about two hours of driving, we approach Tuz Gölü, one of Turkey’s largest lakes. Due to mineral deposits, the water is extremely salty. We follow the shore of the lake, noticing more and more salt formations along the way. At a parking area, we stop to view the salt flat. I buy a can of cola and walk onto the salt plain. There are several hundred other tourists around me. This is likely a stop for all buses heading to Cappadocia—a small preview of what’s to come. The white salt flat looks somewhat like frozen water. My footprints leave a beautiful relief in the salt.Passing Nevsehir, we enter the mountainous region of Cappadocia. The rock formations become more dramatic, and the distinct layers of stone are clearly visible. Cappadocia is one of the world’s greatest natural wonders. The area consists of a tuff and limestone landscape. Through slow erosion, and because different types of rock erode at different rates, a unique and rugged landscape has formed.

Turkey - The cave dwellings in the rocks of Cappadocia

Over time, churches have been carved into the rocks.At Uchisar, I visit Uchisar Castle. The castle or citadel sits high atop a rock outcrop. Many rock-carved dwellings surround it, and in the valley below are more rock homes. Many of these are now used by pigeon breeders. Most of the entrances have been bricked up. The pigeon droppings are collected for fertilizer. I thoroughly enjoy the beautiful landscape of Cappadocia.By early afternoon, as I enter Göreme, I see that tourism is well developed in the town. There are several hot air balloon operators, quad and bicycle rentals, terraces, and restaurants. At the Dora Hotel in central Göreme, I book my balloon flight for tomorrow. I must be ready by 6:15 a.m.In the afternoon, I take a walk around the area. Just outside Göreme, opposite the open-air museum, I turn left. I climb the rocks and explore the remnants of the cave dwellings. Many homes have been carved from the soft tuff stone. From the top of the rocks, I look out over the valley. Scattered throughout are stone pillars, some carved, some natural. A beautiful sight. I climb down and walk among the pillars, but soon notice that the valley ends in a dead end. I have no choice but to climb back up and return to Göreme via the same path.In the evening, I order Testi Kebab for dinner—a local specialty in which the kebab is cooked in a small terracotta pot in the oven. The pot is broken open at the table. The waiter demonstrates how to do it and hands me the little hammer. I get to break my own pot. With a solid tap, I break off the top of the pot, revealing my meal inside.

EdelweissEdelweiss grows abundantly in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan
Id Kah Mosque KashgarThe Id Kah Mosque is the oldest and largest mosque in China
Little BoyA little boy relieving himself through the slit in his pants
Spice Seller KashgarA spice seller at the bazaar of Kashgar

Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

Dag 1 | Turkey > The flight to Ankara
Dag 2 | Turkey > The mausoleum of Atatürk
Dag 3 | Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia
Dag 4 | Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations
Dag 5 | Turkey > Rain in Kahta
Dag 6 | Turkey > In dense fog on Nemrut Dagi mountain
Dag 7 | Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa
Dag 8 | Turkey > The Kurdish capital Diyarbakir
Dag 9 | Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van
Dag 10 | Turkey > The island Akdamar in Lake Van
Dag 11 | Turkey > The Ishak Pasha Palace in Dogubayazit
Dag 12 | Iran > Crossing the border to Iran
Dag 13 | Iran > Visiting a cave dwelling
Dag 14 | Iran > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 15 | Iran > Kurdish food in the park
Dag 16 | Iran > An afternoon tour through Hamadan
Dag 17 | Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom
Dag 18 | Iran > On the roof of the bazaar of Kashan
Dag 19 | Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh
Dag 20 | Iran > Wandering through Esfahan
Dag 21 | Iran > A whirlwind on the square
Dag 22 | Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad
Dag 23 | Iran > Local encounters in Shiraz
Dag 24 | Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae
Dag 25 | Iran > The desert city Yazd
Dag 26 | Iran > Helicopters in the desert
Dag 27 | Iran > The golden tomb of Imam Reza
Dag 28 | Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine
Dag 29 | Turkmenistan > Across the border to Turkmenistan
Dag 30 | Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre
Dag 31 | Turkmenistan > Long bus ride to Mary
Dag 32 | Turkmenistan > The UNESCO city of Merv
Dag 33 | Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara
Dag 34 | Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa
Dag 35 | Uzbekistan > The old palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 36 | Uzbekistan > Registan Square in Samarkand
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Football match Uzbekistan - Iran
Dag 38 | Kazakhstan > Computer malfunction at the border
Dag 39 | Kazakhstan > Hiking in Aksu Djabagly Nature Park
Dag 40 | Kyrgyzstan > Ala-Too Square in Bishkek
Dag 41 | Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park
Dag 42 | Kyrgyzstan > Tamchi on Lake Issyk Kul
Dag 43 | Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol
Dag 44 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight in a yurt
Dag 45 | Kyrgyzstan > On horseback through the valley
Dag 46 | Kyrgyzstan > Through the mountains to Lake Sol Kul
Dag 47 | Kyrgyzstan > Rain and snow around Sol Kul
Dag 48 | Kyrgyzstan > Caravanserai of Tash Rabat
Dag 49 | China > The Torugart Pass into China
Dag 50 | China > Kashgar, the city of the Uyghurs
Dag 51 | China > Cows and goats for sale
Dag 52 | China > By train through the Taklamakan desert
Dag 53 | China > Death Valley of China
Dag 54 | China > Ruins of Jiaohe and Gaochang
Dag 55 | China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang
Dag 56 | China > The Buddhist Mogao Caves
Dag 57 | China > The fort of Jiayuguan
Dag 58 | China > Temple of the Eight Immortals
Dag 59 | China > The Terracotta Army of Xian
Dag 60 | China > Cycling on the Xian city wall
Dag 61 | China > The Forbidden City
Dag 62 | China > Rainy Temple of Heaven
Dag 63 | China > On the Great Wall of China
Dag 64 | China > Meeting the giant panda
Dag 65 | China > There is no bus

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