
Home > Turkey > In the Footsteps of Marco Polo > Travelogue day 3
April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)
In the morning, I meet Murat by the bus. He will be our driver for the next few days. Unfortunately, his English is limited. I can just say “merhaba” (hello) to him. Murat drives the bus out of Ankara in a southeastern direction, heading toward Cappadocia. The roads are excellent. I notice that buildings quickly disappear outside of Ankara. There are hardly any houses along the road. The road winds through hilly terrain. Trees are sparse, with only occasional shrubs. What stands out to me are the many gas stations along the road.
It seems as if there is a station every few kilometers. I do not see any customers anywhere.It is cloudy outside. A shame for Cappadocia, as I hope to take a hot air balloon ride tomorrow morning. Hopefully, the weather will be good enough for the flight. After about two hours of driving, we approach Tuz Gölü, one of Turkey’s largest lakes. Due to mineral deposits, the water is extremely salty. We follow the shore of the lake, noticing more and more salt formations along the way. At a parking area, we stop to view the salt flat. I buy a can of cola and walk onto the salt plain. There are several hundred other tourists around me. This is likely a stop for all buses heading to Cappadocia—a small preview of what’s to come. The white salt flat looks somewhat like frozen water. My footprints leave a beautiful relief in the salt.Passing Nevsehir, we enter the mountainous region of Cappadocia. The rock formations become more dramatic, and the distinct layers of stone are clearly visible. Cappadocia is one of the world’s greatest natural wonders. The area consists of a tuff and limestone landscape. Through slow erosion, and because different types of rock erode at different rates, a unique and rugged landscape has formed.
Over time, churches have been carved into the rocks.At Uchisar, I visit Uchisar Castle. The castle or citadel sits high atop a rock outcrop. Many rock-carved dwellings surround it, and in the valley below are more rock homes. Many of these are now used by pigeon breeders. Most of the entrances have been bricked up. The pigeon droppings are collected for fertilizer. I thoroughly enjoy the beautiful landscape of Cappadocia.By early afternoon, as I enter Göreme, I see that tourism is well developed in the town. There are several hot air balloon operators, quad and bicycle rentals, terraces, and restaurants. At the Dora Hotel in central Göreme, I book my balloon flight for tomorrow. I must be ready by 6:15 a.m.In the afternoon, I take a walk around the area. Just outside Göreme, opposite the open-air museum, I turn left. I climb the rocks and explore the remnants of the cave dwellings. Many homes have been carved from the soft tuff stone. From the top of the rocks, I look out over the valley. Scattered throughout are stone pillars, some carved, some natural. A beautiful sight. I climb down and walk among the pillars, but soon notice that the valley ends in a dead end. I have no choice but to climb back up and return to Göreme via the same path.In the evening, I order Testi Kebab for dinner—a local specialty in which the kebab is cooked in a small terracotta pot in the oven. The pot is broken open at the table. The waiter demonstrates how to do it and hands me the little hammer. I get to break my own pot. With a solid tap, I break off the top of the pot, revealing my meal inside.