Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)


Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol

Dag 43 - Saturday, June 9, 2012

When I stand by the lake in the morning, it’s sunny. What a difference from yesterday. I can clearly see the mountains on the far side of the lake. In a few days, I will be driving along that side of the lake. I see local people washing in the water. The terraces behind me are being cleaned. Tamchi is getting ready for a new day. I leave Tamchi heading east along the lakeshore.

Kyrgyzstan - A passerby wears a traditional Kyrgyz felt hat

At the resort town of Cholpon Ata, the bus turns off for a visit to the Petroglyph Stones—ancient rock carvings. I walk among the stones. They were once carried here by a glacier all the way to the lakeshore. On the stones, ancient inscriptions have been made. I see horses, deer, hunters, and even a leopard. The images date back to before the Common Era. Just after noon, I approach Karakol. Karakol is the largest city around Lake Issyk Kul. About twelve kilometers before reaching the city, I visit the State Memorial Museum. This museum documents the travels of the great Russian explorer Nikolai Przhevalsky. He died in 1888 at this location during one of his expeditions. I tour the museum and walk through the large park to his grave. The park is also popular with local Kyrgyz. A bride and groom enter the park for wedding photos, followed by several boys wearing traditional felt hats. When I try to take a photo, one boy laughingly presses his hat onto my head. We take a photo together. The center of Karakol feels much more like a village. Yet the city has 75,000 inhabitants.

Kyrgyzstan - The beautiful wooden Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Karakol

The main sights are concentrated along the main road through town. I walk to the Chinese mosque. The entirely wooden mosque resembles a Buddhist pagoda, though it lacks Buddha statues inside. The wooden mosque is in poor condition and badly needs restoration. The equally fully wooden Karakol cathedral looks much better. I am impressed by its grandeur. The church is Russian Orthodox. When I enter, I hear chanting— a service is about to begin. The combination of the singing and the beautiful interior leaves a deep impression on me. Near the church, I also visit two old wooden merchant houses. I estimate the houses to be around two hundred years old. They were once used by wealthy Russian traders. A girl at one of the houses explains that two offices are now housed there. She points out the poor maintenance but also says that renovation is not financially feasible. I stay overnight in Karakol at a guesthouse just outside the center. A fine place to stay, with satellite TV. Around midnight, I watch the football match Netherlands vs. Denmark for the European Championship. Unfortunately, the Netherlands loses.

Dilapidated MadrassaOn the roof of a dilapidated Quran school
Roof DomesDomes on the roof of the madrasa in Bukhara
Toilets KazakhstanThe toilets of Kazakhstan
Historic village AbyanehThe historic UNESCO village of Abyaneh built against the mountain

Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

Dag 1 | Turkey > The flight to Ankara
Dag 2 | Turkey > The mausoleum of Atatürk
Dag 3 | Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia
Dag 4 | Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations
Dag 5 | Turkey > Rain in Kahta
Dag 6 | Turkey > In dense fog on Nemrut Dagi mountain
Dag 7 | Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa
Dag 8 | Turkey > The Kurdish capital Diyarbakir
Dag 9 | Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van
Dag 10 | Turkey > The island Akdamar in Lake Van
Dag 11 | Turkey > The Ishak Pasha Palace in Dogubayazit
Dag 12 | Iran > Crossing the border to Iran
Dag 13 | Iran > Visiting a cave dwelling
Dag 14 | Iran > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 15 | Iran > Kurdish food in the park
Dag 16 | Iran > An afternoon tour through Hamadan
Dag 17 | Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom
Dag 18 | Iran > On the roof of the bazaar of Kashan
Dag 19 | Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh
Dag 20 | Iran > Wandering through Esfahan
Dag 21 | Iran > A whirlwind on the square
Dag 22 | Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad
Dag 23 | Iran > Local encounters in Shiraz
Dag 24 | Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae
Dag 25 | Iran > The desert city Yazd
Dag 26 | Iran > Helicopters in the desert
Dag 27 | Iran > The golden tomb of Imam Reza
Dag 28 | Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine
Dag 29 | Turkmenistan > Across the border to Turkmenistan
Dag 30 | Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre
Dag 31 | Turkmenistan > Long bus ride to Mary
Dag 32 | Turkmenistan > The UNESCO city of Merv
Dag 33 | Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara
Dag 34 | Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa
Dag 35 | Uzbekistan > The old palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 36 | Uzbekistan > Registan Square in Samarkand
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Football match Uzbekistan - Iran
Dag 38 | Kazakhstan > Computer malfunction at the border
Dag 39 | Kazakhstan > Hiking in Aksu Djabagly Nature Park
Dag 40 | Kyrgyzstan > Ala-Too Square in Bishkek
Dag 41 | Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park
Dag 42 | Kyrgyzstan > Tamchi on Lake Issyk Kul
Dag 43 | Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol
Dag 44 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight in a yurt
Dag 45 | Kyrgyzstan > On horseback through the valley
Dag 46 | Kyrgyzstan > Through the mountains to Lake Sol Kul
Dag 47 | Kyrgyzstan > Rain and snow around Sol Kul
Dag 48 | Kyrgyzstan > Caravanserai of Tash Rabat
Dag 49 | China > The Torugart Pass into China
Dag 50 | China > Kashgar, the city of the Uyghurs
Dag 51 | China > Cows and goats for sale
Dag 52 | China > By train through the Taklamakan desert
Dag 53 | China > Death Valley of China
Dag 54 | China > Ruins of Jiaohe and Gaochang
Dag 55 | China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang
Dag 56 | China > The Buddhist Mogao Caves
Dag 57 | China > The fort of Jiayuguan
Dag 58 | China > Temple of the Eight Immortals
Dag 59 | China > The Terracotta Army of Xian
Dag 60 | China > Cycling on the Xian city wall
Dag 61 | China > The Forbidden City
Dag 62 | China > Rainy Temple of Heaven
Dag 63 | China > On the Great Wall of China
Dag 64 | China > Meeting the giant panda
Dag 65 | China > There is no bus

Ben jij een wereldreiziger?