
Home > Kyrgyzstan > In the Footsteps of Marco Polo > Travelogue day 43
April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)
When I stand by the lake in the morning, it’s sunny. What a difference from yesterday. I can clearly see the mountains on the far side of the lake. In a few days, I will be driving along that side of the lake. I see local people washing in the water. The terraces behind me are being cleaned. Tamchi is getting ready for a new day. I leave Tamchi heading east along the lakeshore.
At the resort town of Cholpon Ata, the bus turns off for a visit to the Petroglyph Stones—ancient rock carvings. I walk among the stones. They were once carried here by a glacier all the way to the lakeshore. On the stones, ancient inscriptions have been made. I see horses, deer, hunters, and even a leopard. The images date back to before the Common Era. Just after noon, I approach Karakol. Karakol is the largest city around Lake Issyk Kul. About twelve kilometers before reaching the city, I visit the State Memorial Museum. This museum documents the travels of the great Russian explorer Nikolai Przhevalsky. He died in 1888 at this location during one of his expeditions. I tour the museum and walk through the large park to his grave. The park is also popular with local Kyrgyz. A bride and groom enter the park for wedding photos, followed by several boys wearing traditional felt hats. When I try to take a photo, one boy laughingly presses his hat onto my head. We take a photo together. The center of Karakol feels much more like a village. Yet the city has 75,000 inhabitants.
The main sights are concentrated along the main road through town. I walk to the Chinese mosque. The entirely wooden mosque resembles a Buddhist pagoda, though it lacks Buddha statues inside. The wooden mosque is in poor condition and badly needs restoration. The equally fully wooden Karakol cathedral looks much better. I am impressed by its grandeur. The church is Russian Orthodox. When I enter, I hear chanting— a service is about to begin. The combination of the singing and the beautiful interior leaves a deep impression on me. Near the church, I also visit two old wooden merchant houses. I estimate the houses to be around two hundred years old. They were once used by wealthy Russian traders. A girl at one of the houses explains that two offices are now housed there. She points out the poor maintenance but also says that renovation is not financially feasible. I stay overnight in Karakol at a guesthouse just outside the center. A fine place to stay, with satellite TV. Around midnight, I watch the football match Netherlands vs. Denmark for the European Championship. Unfortunately, the Netherlands loses.