Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre

Today I drive around Ashgabat by bus to see the sights. The large white marble buildings, wide boulevards, and extensive parks give the streetscape a uniform look. From the bus, I see the 2 × 4-lane boulevard. On both sides are white apartment complexes, and the median strip is lined with several fountains. Elegant lampposts stand along the road. The entire scene has a fairy-tale quality.

Turkmenistan - The golden statue of Turkmenbashi in Ashgabat

I find it a cross between Disneyland and Dubai. I get off at the 10th Anniversary Independence Park. Turkmenistan became independent in 1991. Prominently in the park stands the statue of the first president of independent Turkmenistan, Turkmenbashi. Turkmenbashi used the country’s gas and oil revenues to build the new Ashgabat. Behind him is a statue commemorating Turkmenistan’s tenth anniversary. Across the street lies Turkmenistan’s “World of Fairy Tales,” an amusement park in the middle of Ashgabat, although it is often closed. As we drive further through the city, Maksat tells me about the buildings. Architecturally, one building is more beautiful than the next. All are predominantly white marble. Today is Sunday, traditionally market day. In the past, the market was held in the sand dunes on the city’s edge—a colorful scene of rugs spread in the sand. For the past two years, the market has been relocated to new market halls, naturally built of white marble. When I arrive, I see the enormous complex. It feels more like a shopping mall than a traditional bazaar. For tourists, the old location was far more special, but for local traders, the new location is more practical. I enter the first hall—electronics.

Turkmenistan - Camels being traded at the livestock market in Ashgabat

I walk among the small shops, where the latest televisions are stacked high. Through the household goods section, I reach the livestock market. The sounds of cows reach me from a distance. I am surprised by how the animals are treated. Goats are simply thrown into the back of cars, and a camel is beaten to get it into a truck. This, however, is everyday practice. On the other side of the city, I visit the Mausoleum of Turkmenbashi. The mausoleum and its adjacent mosque are about ten kilometers outside the city. From a distance, I see the 91-meter-high minarets of the Turkmenbashi Mosque. Apparently, the height of the minarets refers to the year of independence. I arrive at the mausoleum. The building feels sterile. I admire the soldiers standing guard in the blazing sun; another soldier occasionally wipes his forehead. I walk up the wide stairs. Inside, Turkmenbashi lies directly beneath the large dome, surrounded by his family members. Many relatives perished in the devastating 1948 Ashgabat earthquake, which leveled the entire city. The mosque next to the mausoleum is equally impressive. Standing directly under the high dome, I can fully appreciate the size of the mosque. Like everything else here, it is completely dedicated to Turkmenbashi.

Turkmenistan - The mosque of Turkmenbashi

Back in the city center, I visit the Arch of Neutrality. This monument, topped with a large golden statue of Turkmenbashi, once stood in the center of the city. As local youths explained to me yesterday, the statue has been moved to a park on the outskirts of the center. The statue is still impressive, although the relocation is not yet fully completed. It is not yet accessible to visitors, and Turkmenbashi’s statue no longer rotates with the sun as it once did. At the nearby National Museum, I see various archaeological finds, with the model of Merv attracting my attention most. I will visit Merv in two days. I also admire the enormous hand-knotted carpet named after Turkmenbashi. Passing the Independence Monument, I come to the Ruchnama book—a towering representation of Turkmenbashi’s book. Finally, I am dropped off in the center of Ashgabat. I walk through the parks, admire the many statues, and end up with a beer on a terrace. In the evening, I buy a ticket for the Russian Pushkin Theater. Among the local audience, I watch the performance. Although I do not understand a word of Russian, it is remarkable to experience the play. The Turkmen sitting right next to me seem to feel the same.