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I walk between the broad pillars. I examine the frescoes on the east side of the church. All churches face east, Asschef tells me. That’s where the sun rises. I take off my shoes and enter the churches. Mulu watches over my shoes outside so they won’t be taken. She makes sure they’re waiting for me on the other side when I exit. I wander through the narrow passageways of the churches. What a remarkable place to explore. I’m impressed by all the splendor. After visiting the six churches, I walk a short way through the village to the only freestanding rock church. This Saint George Church is also the most famous. The cruciform rock church often appears in travel guides. To my relief, this church is not covered, so the underground structure is beautifully visible in contrast to the landscape. It’s truly picture-perfect.