Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh

Today’s stage leads to Esfahan. A relatively short distance. On the way, I stop at the little town of Abyaneh. Abyaneh is one of the oldest villages in Iran. The old adobe houses have two levels: in summer people live on the lower floor, in winter on the upper floor. The mountain village of Abyaneh is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

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From the parking area, I walk into the village. The reddish-brown adobe houses are closely packed together. I turn into a narrow alley between the houses. A few residents are sitting in front of their homes. Women with colorful scarves, black skirts, and stockings. Men with low-hanging trousers. Everyone I see is elderly. The younger generation chooses a life in the city. Once these villagers pass away, Abyaneh will become a ghost town. I ask for directions to the mosque by pointing to the Farsi word for “mosque.” With hand gestures, they show me the way. Unfortunately, the 11th-century mosque is closed. I can, however, visit the adjacent mausoleum. I walk through the valley and climb up the other side to the remains of the fort.

Iran - The historic UNESCO village of Abyaneh built against the mountain

From here I have a beautiful view over Abyaneh. After my visit to Abyaneh, the bus takes me further on to Esfahan. The hotel is near the central Imam Square. I walk onto the square and immediately recognize the atmosphere I experienced here two years ago. In a little shop in the bazaar, someone speaks to me. Do I want to see the roof of the bazaar? As I follow Bertram, I get a sense of déjà vu. Two years ago, in this exact same spot, he had already shown me the roof. I also recognize his uncle, the carpet seller. Bertram tells me that his grandfather recently passed away. It was from him that I bought a rug two years ago. In the evening, I dine at a restaurant on the edge of the square. A good restaurant in Persian style. Perhaps a little too touristy, but that is to be expected when a place is listed in the Lonely Planet. I order beryoni, a dish of flatbread filled with spiced meat, a specialty of Esfahan. Vahit had already advised me three days ago in Hamadan to order this dish here.