Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara

Uzbekistan - The central square of Bukhara

Bukhara is best explored simply by walking through it. The old town is relatively small. Many squares around the bazaar are surrounded by old madrassas (Quran schools). Some schools are still in use, while others have been taken over by tourist vendors. From the hotel, I walk onto the square and enter an old madrassa. The madrassa has been fully restored. As soon as I step inside, carpet sellers immediately approach me. A little disappointing, really. I am more interested in the construction of the building itself. Through the covered bazaar, filled with stalls and shops, I reach a traditional teahouse. I order a tea and it comes with a full tray of sweets. Opposite the teahouse stands an old bathhouse. I go inside. For tourists, after closing time, it’s possible to bathe and get a massage. But I prefer the idea of bathing among the locals. I make an appointment for a bath and massage in the afternoon.

Uzbekistan - Just delivered a photo from previous travellers to two shopkeepers

The price is touristy, of course. Here, and elsewhere in Bukhara, it’s noticeable that there are two sets of prices: one for locals and one for tourists. Locals pay nothing to enter mosques and madrassas. The two madrassas to the right of the bazaar are freely accessible. They are located directly opposite each other. When I enter through the main gate, vendors immediately look at me hopefully. I am mainly interested in the special prayer room. I find this unique room just to the right of the entrance, peeking through the carpets. In the central square of Bukhara, I approach the tall minaret. Friends from the Netherlands had sent me photos of some people around the square. When I stand in front of one of the stalls, I immediately recognize the seller from the photo. She is stunned when I show it to her. Everyone must come and see. In gratitude, she hands me a bottle of water.

Uzbekistan - The grand mosque of Bukhara

I buy a cola as well. Of course, I take a group photo too—perhaps for future travelers to Uzbekistan. The second photo is of a grocer on the opposite side. When I show the photo to a few men, they immediately point me further down the way. A boy walks ahead of me to the shop in question. The seller bursts out laughing when he sees the photo. It’s his brother, along with the cleaner. His brother isn’t there now, but could arrive at any moment. The photo passes from hand to hand on the veranda in front of the shop. “Here he comes,” says the brother. I show the photo to the surprised boy. Everyone laughs. He comments that it was clearly colder back then, judging by the jacket and cap. I leave the photo behind and shake hands with both brothers. Back at the central square, I visit the large mosque. The nearby citadel is closed. A few months ago, part of the wall collapsed and it must be restored first. Through the old water tower, I reach a busy terrace in the park. I order a beer. It’s quite warm today, and the beer tastes excellent. After this break, I walk back to the bazaar for my hammam appointment. I enter the hammam.

Uzbekistan - The large wall of the citadel of Bukhara

Through gestures, I am shown a locker. I change, store my clothes, and walk inside the old hammam wearing only a towel. The hammam consists of three rooms with stone domes. The floor is made of coarse marble. In one of the domes, there is a sort of sauna. It is humid and warm. The hole at the top of the dome has been closed, keeping the heat inside. All my pores open. I am called over. First, my skin is scrubbed. Then I lie down for the massage. Massages can be vigorous, but mine is gentle. All muscles are treated calmly, in the historic hammam environment. Finally, I am rinsed with alternating cold and warm water. Once dressed again, I am offered a cup of tea. A very enjoyable experience in this special setting. In the evening, I eat on a rooftop terrace. From the second floor, I watch the sun set over the minaret in Bukhara’s central square. A sultry breeze blows across the terrace.