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We buy a ticket at the counter. Entry is free for locals. Immediately, a guide starts walking alongside us, eager to tell us everything. We tell him we’re not interested, but he persists. The view of the cremations across the river is a strange sight. It feels more like watching a film. The guide continues giving information nonstop. We realize we’re now committed to giving a tip. Outside, he also shows us a retirement home before we part ways. The guide is clearly unhappy with our tip and protests loudly as he follows us for a while. Meanwhile, we walk on toward the Bodhnath Temple—one of the largest stupas in the world. We have to ask for directions a few times through the residential area before we finally see the stupa rising above the rooftops. We step onto the square and walk clockwise around the stupa. Around the square are many prayer wheels, which pilgrims spin as they pass by.