Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)


Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park

Dag 41 - Thursday, June 7, 2012

The Ala Archa nature reserve lies a few dozen kilometers outside Bishkek. In the reserve, you can go on beautiful multi-day hikes through the mountains. I limit my walk to just one morning. In a small minibus, I drive to the reserve in about an hour. My guide introduces himself as John. This is probably easier than his own Kyrgyz or Russian name. He leads me along the narrow path into the mountains.

Kyrgyzstan - A mountain hike to the waterfall in the Ala Archa Nature Park

The weather is beautifully clear. Along the way, I see the Ala Archa mountain stream flowing. Above me, the snow-capped peaks rise. I won’t reach the snowline today. John points out a waterfall in the distance and suggests we walk to the base of it. I agree. The path gradually ascends. I started the walk at an altitude of 2,200 meters, but the trail quickly gains elevation. I adjust my pace so as not to become exhausted in the sun. The view over the valley is stunning. I take photo after photo, although I know a landscape shot never comes out quite as well as I would like. After more than two hours of walking, I have to cross a mountain stream. Using a few large stones, I manage to get across without getting wet. From here begins the last steep climb. I am now above 2,800 meters, and I begin to feel the altitude. John walks ahead of me, and I cannot keep up with his pace. At my own speed, I climb the final stretch to the waterfall. Tired but satisfied, I sit down on the grass at the base of the waterfall. Time for my lunch. I don’t have much time, though.

Kyrgyzstan - High into the mountains in the Ala Archa Nature Reserve near Bishkek

I already know I won’t be back at the agreed time to meet the other travelers. To avoid being too late, I start my descent quickly. At a brisk pace, I retrace the same route down. In just over an hour, I am back at the bottom. In the afternoon, I walk through Bishkek. I see the dilapidated Russian apartment blocks—depressing places to live. I pass Ala-Too Square. The sun is directly overhead, so I quickly enter the park to walk in the shade. Behind the museum stands a large statue of Lenin. Apparently, removing the Russian statue is considered too expensive, so it is simply left in place. Lenin gazes from his pedestal at the parliament building. I want to eat something and sit down at a terrace café. The menu is in Russian, and the waitress only speaks Russian as well. I can’t recognize anything. I randomly point at an item on the menu. When the waitress returns and my dish is already “finished,” I give up. I pay for my beer and go to a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet. Here, I get an English menu.

BuddhaThe Buddha statue in the Lama Temple in Beijing
Terracotta Army XianThe large hall of the Terracotta Army in Xian
Kashgar livestock marketJust outside the centre of Kashgar the livestock market is held
Mao Statue The statue of Mao in Kashgar

Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

Dag 1 | Turkey > The flight to Ankara
Dag 2 | Turkey > The mausoleum of Atatürk
Dag 3 | Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia
Dag 4 | Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations
Dag 5 | Turkey > Rain in Kahta
Dag 6 | Turkey > In dense fog on Nemrut Dagi mountain
Dag 7 | Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa
Dag 8 | Turkey > The Kurdish capital Diyarbakir
Dag 9 | Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van
Dag 10 | Turkey > The island Akdamar in Lake Van
Dag 11 | Turkey > The Ishak Pasha Palace in Dogubayazit
Dag 12 | Iran > Crossing the border to Iran
Dag 13 | Iran > Visiting a cave dwelling
Dag 14 | Iran > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 15 | Iran > Kurdish food in the park
Dag 16 | Iran > An afternoon tour through Hamadan
Dag 17 | Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom
Dag 18 | Iran > On the roof of the bazaar of Kashan
Dag 19 | Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh
Dag 20 | Iran > Wandering through Esfahan
Dag 21 | Iran > A whirlwind on the square
Dag 22 | Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad
Dag 23 | Iran > Local encounters in Shiraz
Dag 24 | Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae
Dag 25 | Iran > The desert city Yazd
Dag 26 | Iran > Helicopters in the desert
Dag 27 | Iran > The golden tomb of Imam Reza
Dag 28 | Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine
Dag 29 | Turkmenistan > Across the border to Turkmenistan
Dag 30 | Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre
Dag 31 | Turkmenistan > Long bus ride to Mary
Dag 32 | Turkmenistan > The UNESCO city of Merv
Dag 33 | Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara
Dag 34 | Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa
Dag 35 | Uzbekistan > The old palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 36 | Uzbekistan > Registan Square in Samarkand
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Football match Uzbekistan - Iran
Dag 38 | Kazakhstan > Computer malfunction at the border
Dag 39 | Kazakhstan > Hiking in Aksu Djabagly Nature Park
Dag 40 | Kyrgyzstan > Ala-Too Square in Bishkek
Dag 41 | Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park
Dag 42 | Kyrgyzstan > Tamchi on Lake Issyk Kul
Dag 43 | Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol
Dag 44 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight in a yurt
Dag 45 | Kyrgyzstan > On horseback through the valley
Dag 46 | Kyrgyzstan > Through the mountains to Lake Sol Kul
Dag 47 | Kyrgyzstan > Rain and snow around Sol Kul
Dag 48 | Kyrgyzstan > Caravanserai of Tash Rabat
Dag 49 | China > The Torugart Pass into China
Dag 50 | China > Kashgar, the city of the Uyghurs
Dag 51 | China > Cows and goats for sale
Dag 52 | China > By train through the Taklamakan desert
Dag 53 | China > Death Valley of China
Dag 54 | China > Ruins of Jiaohe and Gaochang
Dag 55 | China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang
Dag 56 | China > The Buddhist Mogao Caves
Dag 57 | China > The fort of Jiayuguan
Dag 58 | China > Temple of the Eight Immortals
Dag 59 | China > The Terracotta Army of Xian
Dag 60 | China > Cycling on the Xian city wall
Dag 61 | China > The Forbidden City
Dag 62 | China > Rainy Temple of Heaven
Dag 63 | China > On the Great Wall of China
Dag 64 | China > Meeting the giant panda
Dag 65 | China > There is no bus

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