
Home > Kyrgyzstan > In the Footsteps of Marco Polo > Travelogue day 41
April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)
The Ala Archa nature reserve lies a few dozen kilometers outside Bishkek. In the reserve, you can go on beautiful multi-day hikes through the mountains. I limit my walk to just one morning. In a small minibus, I drive to the reserve in about an hour. My guide introduces himself as John. This is probably easier than his own Kyrgyz or Russian name. He leads me along the narrow path into the mountains.
The weather is beautifully clear. Along the way, I see the Ala Archa mountain stream flowing. Above me, the snow-capped peaks rise. I won’t reach the snowline today. John points out a waterfall in the distance and suggests we walk to the base of it. I agree. The path gradually ascends. I started the walk at an altitude of 2,200 meters, but the trail quickly gains elevation. I adjust my pace so as not to become exhausted in the sun. The view over the valley is stunning. I take photo after photo, although I know a landscape shot never comes out quite as well as I would like. After more than two hours of walking, I have to cross a mountain stream. Using a few large stones, I manage to get across without getting wet. From here begins the last steep climb. I am now above 2,800 meters, and I begin to feel the altitude. John walks ahead of me, and I cannot keep up with his pace. At my own speed, I climb the final stretch to the waterfall. Tired but satisfied, I sit down on the grass at the base of the waterfall. Time for my lunch. I don’t have much time, though.
I already know I won’t be back at the agreed time to meet the other travelers. To avoid being too late, I start my descent quickly. At a brisk pace, I retrace the same route down. In just over an hour, I am back at the bottom. In the afternoon, I walk through Bishkek. I see the dilapidated Russian apartment blocks—depressing places to live. I pass Ala-Too Square. The sun is directly overhead, so I quickly enter the park to walk in the shade. Behind the museum stands a large statue of Lenin. Apparently, removing the Russian statue is considered too expensive, so it is simply left in place. Lenin gazes from his pedestal at the parliament building. I want to eat something and sit down at a terrace café. The menu is in Russian, and the waitress only speaks Russian as well. I can’t recognize anything. I randomly point at an item on the menu. When the waitress returns and my dish is already “finished,” I give up. I pay for my beer and go to a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet. Here, I get an English menu.