Madagascar > In the Pousse-pousse

At eight o’clock I get on the bus to go to Lac du Tritriva, a crater lake about thirty kilometers past Antsirabe. The last ten kilometers are over a sandy, bumpy road. Heavy trucks also travel along this dusty route, kicking up thick clouds of dust over the road and nearby houses. The road gradually climbs upward. Faly drives the bus carefully toward the crater lake. After about an hour and a half, I round the final bend and see a large group of vendors ready with their goods, hoping to make a sale. When they realize the bus isn’t stopping at the entrance gate, they quickly run up the hill to the parking area. I estimate there are more than fifty sellers. I cannot imagine they sell much here. As expected, I am immediately surrounded when I step off the bus. Zony, my local guide, keeps them at a distance. “Later, later,” they shout, knowing I have to get back on the bus. I walk to the rim of the crater.

Madagascar - The clear waters of Tritriya crater lake

From here, I have a stunning view of Tritriva crater lake. I see the steep rocks on the opposite side reflecting in the turquoise water. Zony explains that the lake was formed by a volcanic eruption and is about 160 meters deep. The volcano is no longer active. The rocks on the far side rise up to thirty meters above the water. I carefully descend along the walking path. With the loose stones, I have to watch my step to avoid slipping. I make my way around the other side of the lake and return to the bus. On the way back to Antsirabe, I walk along a stretch of the road. It’s enjoyable to see the landscape and daily life along the route up close. Later, the bus picks me up again to continue to Antsirabe. After lunch, I explore Antsirabe itself. I first visit the cathedral. Inside, the church is being cleaned—it turns out they do this every Saturday in preparation for Sunday mass. Further along the main road, I enter the Antsenakely market (Petit marché). At the various stalls, people are eating. Meat hangs ready, and fruit is neatly stacked. However, it looks somewhat messy and unkempt, and a strong, unpleasant smell lingers in the air. I leave the market. At a second church, I see the gate open and walk toward the doorway. When I enter from the side, a mass is in progress. I quickly turn around. Judging by a funeral cart outside, I realize I may have just walked into a funeral ceremony. I feel a bit awkward about this. I continue to the Asabotsy market, a large open-air market resembling an Arab souq. Numerous pousse-pousse drivers (hand-pulled taxis) try to get me into their carts, but I decline. The market entrance is easy to spot—I follow the crowd inside. The market is a colorful mix of stalls selling all sorts of goods. I step back a little from the pungent smell around the dried fish. One would have to spend the whole day here to really experience it. I greet everyone politely with “Bonjour” and “Salama.” Once I leave the market, I am immediately approached by pousse-pousse drivers. I decide to let one of them take me back to the center. Using the numbers in the Lonely Planet, I manage to negotiate a fare.

Madagascar - The colorful market of Antsirabe

I sit in the cart as a slender man pulls it. Only now do I notice that he is running down the slope barefoot with the cart. When the road climbs again, he clearly struggles with the heavy load. I feel a bit uneasy. I am relieved when we arrive at the post office, our agreed-upon destination. I decide to give him a little extra, hoping it will help him save for shoes. At the luxurious Hotel des Thermes, I meet my fellow travelers again.

Madagascar - A ride in a poussepousse cart

Together, we drive back to our accommodation at Madalief. Feeling dusty, I quickly take a shower. In the evening, there is another traditional Malagasy soup-based meal. Rémy, the founder of the Madalief Foundation, explains the meal and also provides information about the foundation. Over the past twelve years, she has cared for orphaned children and strives to create work opportunities for older children through the foundation. She also supports local schools and pays school fees for poor children. With income from, among other things, overnight stays here, the foundation is able to fulfill these objectives.