Madagascar > The haunting call of the indri-indri

I wake up to a loud commotion. Outside, it’s still dark. It takes me a moment to realize that it’s the call of the indri-indri. The sound echoes loudly through the forest. I have the impression they are right above my bungalow. I check my watch: it’s 4:30 a.m. At seven o’clock, I sit down for breakfast. Everyone heard the indris during the night; some couldn’t get back to sleep afterward. After breakfast, I follow Florant and Rémy to Andasibe Nature Park. The group is divided into three, depending on the desired route and duration. I join Rémy for the four-hour trek. Rémy shows me some flowers and explains about the trees, but of course, I’m here for the indri-indris. When he hears a sound in the trees, Rémy enters the forest. Two indris are perched high in a tree—a magnificent sight. Other groups arrive as well; they have been alerted by Rémy. When there are too many people clustered together, I continue on with my group. A little further along, a group of diademed sifakas is in the trees

Madagascar - A diademed sifaka lemur

. I try to photograph them through the branches, but it’s tricky against the bright sky. “Wait,” Rémy says. “Once they’ve finished eating, they’ll come down.” Skeptically, I follow his advice. About fifteen minutes later, one sifaka descends. I can now observe it just a few meters away—a beautiful animal. To my left and right, more sifakas come down; some even play on the ground. Further into the park, we see people gathered near some bushes. There are a few woolly lemurs. Normally, they are only active at night. It’s difficult to photograph the small creatures among the dark branches, so I just enjoy watching them. Other groups also arrive and have spotted the common brown lemurs. We quickly head to the designated spot. Rémy searches and searches, but cannot find them. Unfortunately. Just when I’ve given up hope, I see a troop near the exit

Madagascar - A curious common brown lemur looks down

. They are perched in the treetops of a dense patch of forest. The lemurs are curious too and come to see what I’m doing, allowing me a close-up view of the common brown lemur—a lovely way to end the trek. For lunch, I return toward the bungalows, eating not at the resort itself but at a small restaurant across the road. I order a pasta meal, which gives me a good base for the afternoon program. I head to Vakona Lodge, nine kilometers further. On the way, I pass through the center of Antsirabe. At Vakona Lodge, there is a sanctuary for abandoned lemurs. As I arrive, I see a black-and-white lemur on the far side of the water. Everyone is ferried to the island in pairs with a canoe, presumably to prevent the lemurs from reaching the mainland. Other lemurs come walking over. When I bend down to photograph a common brown lemur with a young on her back, another lemur jumps on my back from behind. I’m startled, feeling the soft fur on my neck. I’m a bit uneasy, but fortunately, it jumps on. The guide assures me it’s harmless.

Madagascar - A maki jumps onto my shoulder looking for something to eat

A little further on, several lemurs are gathered together. They are clearly used to people. While photos are taken, the animals hop from shoulder to shoulder, searching for bits of banana. On the central island, a sifaka lemur sits. This lemur is particularly remarkable for its way of moving; I watch it glide sideways almost like dancing along the shoreline. In another part of the lodge, I visit a crocodile farm. Dozens of crocodiles live in a fenced-off section of the river. There are also two fossas—the predator most dangerous to lemurs. Here they pose no threat, as they are in a cage. In the evening, before dinner, I go out again with Florant. Along the main road, we search for nocturnal animals in the dark. Florant shines his flashlight into the trees and spots a woolly lemur. The animal dives behind the leaves, and I only see its eyes reflecting in the light. Florant spots several sleeping chameleons, astonishing me with how quickly he finds them. When he sees a mouse lemur, he becomes excited. I follow him through the bushes to catch a glimpse of this tiny lemur and just manage to make out its little face through the branches.