Madagascar > Climbing the Chameleon

I wake up early for a long hike to Chameleon Mountain, a rock formation shaped like a giant chameleon. At seven o’clock, I leave Camp Catta and follow guide Dorus. Two porters, Tita and Busy, also come along—two boys from the nearby village. They carry the water and lunch. The first part of the trail goes through the forest. Due to the higher elevation and the valley’s dryness, there is no rainforest here, only low trees and shrubs. Dorus spots several birds and insects. So far, the trail is flat, but starting from the water pool, it begins to climb. The path ascends along the valley. Looking back, I see that I am gaining height quickly. The rock formations rise vertically around me. I pause several times on the way up. Although it’s partly cloudy, my thermometer already reads 30 degrees. It’s not even nine o’clock in the morning. As I climb higher toward the Chameleon, Dorus spots our fellow travelers on the other side of the valley, making their way to the Tsaranoro Massif.

Madagascar - A rock shaped like a chameleon

I cannot see them with the naked eye, but I can with binoculars. Dorus’s calls echo through the valley, bouncing between the mountains. The final part of the climb is steeper. I climb from rock to rock. Before I realize it, I am standing at the very top of the mountain, on the back of the chameleon. I give Dorus a high five. Although this is the end point of the hike, I continue toward the chameleon’s head. Dorus follows behind, warning me to be careful. I see a two-meter-wide gap separating the head from the body. I see no way to cross it. Dorus indicates that we can go around it. I leave my backpack behind and climb down about ten meters along the sloping side. Dorus shows me where to hold and where to place my feet. I must be careful not to slip, or I could slide a long way down. On the lower part, I can safely make the crossing to the head. From the chameleon’s head, I look out over the valley below, about seven hundred meters down. What a magnificent view. I descend again on the other side.

Madagascar - Up a steep slope to the top of the chameleon

The descent is much faster than the climb. Far below, I see the village growing larger and larger. As I approach the first houses, I reach a simple little hotel. There are some benches here, and I can order a drink—a perfect spot for lunch. I walk back to Camp Catta through the village. After more than seven hours, I return to the campsite. It has been a wonderful hike. I change and head to the pool. The ecological pool is beautifully set, with the towering rocks in the background. I swim a few laps and then dry off on a sun lounger. At the end of the afternoon, I finish with a beer on the terrace. Around me, the trees sway. A troop of ring-tailed lemurs passes by the terrace. The trees bend back and forth, and some of the little animals walk across the bamboo roof above me. What a funny sight. Everywhere I look, tails are swishing.