Madagascar > Lemurs in the National Park

At the entrance of Ranomafana National Park, I meet Diamond, my guide for today. Together, we set out to look for the bamboo lemurs in this park. Ranomafana N.P. was established to protect the bamboo lemurs. Diamond tells me that they are difficult to find. Ahead of me walks a spotter, a guide-in-training, searching for the lemurs. Meanwhile, Diamond talks about the flowers, trees, and parasitic plants. When the phone rings, the spotter has spotted something. The pace quickens, and I climb down a steep slope behind Diamond—only to find it was in vain, as the lemurs have already moved on. I climb back up in the direction they went. At the top, I see a large group of people on the path and in the bushes. They are watching two red-bellied lemurs. I momentarily forget my slight irritation at the many people gathered there and focus on the pair.

Madagascar - A redbellied lemur in the treetops

I see them beautifully among the leaves in the sunlight. For the next lemur, Diamond also receives a signal. A grey bamboo lemur is in the bushes. As I approach, the little animal jumps through the different groups. Diamond points him out among the trees, but I cannot see him. Diamond takes over my camera to capture the lemur. Only then do I see him moving among the leaves. Further along, a forest rat darts across the path into the bushes. I also spot a common brown lemur in the treetops. The little creature lies quietly on a branch, watching me. Diamond notices movement in the bushes—a bird. He requests a camera and zooms until the bird is clearly visible on the screen.

Madagascar - A remarkable giraffeneck beetle

Pointing out the animal in the bushes would be practically impossible. Then he takes the photo. Although I didn’t see the golden bamboo lemur in this park, the results of the walk are very satisfying. Content, I return to my hotel. In the afternoon, I walk into the village. I cross the river via a rickety wooden bridge. The iron bridge was washed away during a cyclone in 2008, and I can still see the remnants in the water. On the opposite bank, I continue to the hotspring bath. The pool is heated by a volcanic hot spring. The bath and changing rooms are past their prime. When I jump into the water, I attract a lot of attention from the local swimmers.

Madagascar - The pool of Ranomafana

I’m startled by the warm water, which I estimate to be well above thirty degrees Celsius. It’s not exactly refreshingly cool. In the evening, I take another night walk with Diamond. Along a section of the main road outside the village, we search for the mouse lemur. I feel slightly disappointed when a tree trunk is smeared with banana to lure the little creature, a method used every day. Sure enough, it doesn’t take long before I see the tiny animal, about the size of a hamster, appear on the trunk. On the other side of the road, I see several chameleons and sleeping birds. Here too, Diamond enjoys helping to take the right photos. Back at the hotel, I take the menu and consult one of the evening walk guides to explain the Malagasy dishes. On his advice, I order a meal with chicken, rice, and coconut sauce. It turns out to be an excellent choice.

Madagascar - A chameleon shedding its skin