Madagascar > The Tsingy Tsingy rocks

Before breakfast, I feel my stomach rumbling. Not too sluggish like the past two weeks, but rather too easily—like water, it comes out. I decide to order only a dry roll at the little shop on the corner next to the hotel. Feeling a bit weak, I get into the minibus. Luckily, there are two minibuses. There are eighteen seats, but they are very close together. It’s also quite a hassle to get to the back, as some seats are mounted in the doorway. The route follows the RN6 again, which means another bumpy ride over the same road I traveled two days ago.

Madagascar - The asphalt is laid but no longer maintained

The difference between the 4x4 vehicles and the minibus is noticeable. I bounce along the road. Along the way, I pass many villages with thatched houses. The contrast between the poor rural life and the relative wealth of some in the big city is striking. Due to the poor condition of the road, it takes nearly five hours to cover the ninety kilometers to Ankarana National Park. I’m relieved when I reach the overnight stop. Lunch is quickly prepared: a starter salad, a main meal with meat, plenty of rice and vegetables, and fruit for dessert. When I receive the key to my bungalow, I’m pleasantly surprised. It’s indeed a simple hut, as described in the travel guide, but it has its own shower and toilet. Even though I haven’t felt unwell since this morning, it’s good to have just in case. At three o’clock, I drive to Ankarana National Park. Normally it’s only a few minutes’ drive, if not for the roadwork. A truck is dumping piles of sand on the road, making it nearly impossible to pass.

Madagascar - The bat cave in Ankarana National Park

By driving partly on the edge and partly over the sand mound, the minibuses just manage to get through. At the park, I join guide Oreal. He takes me to the Petit Tsingy. The Tsingy consists of sharp karst rock formations created by erosion. To reach the Tsingy, I sometimes have to squeeze through narrow passages. From the top, the view is overwhelming. I see a gray stone mass with extremely sharp points. I have to watch my step carefully. Fortunately, extra stones have been placed in some areas to walk on. When I use my hands for support to step from one rock to another, I feel just how sharp the rocks are—so caution is essential! From the viewpoint, I descend to the bat cave. Oreal shines his flashlight on the ceiling. I see bats hanging from the ceiling, some stretching their wings. The animals are much larger than I expected. Oreal also takes me to a spot where a group of small bats hangs. It’s not possible to wait for the bats to fly out, as this happens at dusk and the park is already closed then. I walk back to the exit. Near the parking area, a group of brown-crowned lemurs is in the bushes, searching for any leftover food from visitors. I return to the campsite for my dinner.