Madagascar > Isalo National Park

At seven o’clock, I leave the grounds of Hotel de Isalo. In the village, Toussant gets on. He has brought two helpers, Mark and Names. They accompany us to the start of the park. The last three kilometers are unpaved. Faly drives the bus carefully along the dirt road. Halfway, we all have to get out briefly because the bus sits too low. Then everyone quickly gets back in as the bus has to go through water. At the parking area, I step out and follow Toussant into the park. The park consists of stunning rock formations. The rocks are colored red, green, and yellow due to the minerals in the mountains. I walk among the rock formations, enjoying a beautiful view of the dry valley.

Madagascar - A walk to the other side of Isalo Park

From the viewpoint, I continue walking to the Piscine Naturelle—a natural pool with a waterfall. I quickly change and jump into the water. It’s cold. As I get closer to the waterfall, the water becomes slightly warmer. On the shore, I let myself dry in the sun. From the pool, the walk continues four kilometers across the valley to the campsite. This is mostly flat but exposed to the bright sun. I even have the chance to walk at a brisk pace, probably to Toussant’s surprise, as he huffs and puffs at the back. Just before the campsite, the route descends via steps carved out of the rocks. When I reach the bottom, the cooks are already preparing lunch. On large barbecues, they are grilling a Zebu steak. Around me, several ring-tailed lemurs watch from the trees, looking to grab any leftover food. Earlier today, a White Sifaka also visited the campsite. Only one Sifaka still lives here. I spot it at a considerable distance, moving from branch to branch. In the afternoon, I walk into the Canyon des Singes. The deep canyon in the Isalo mountains is lush with beautiful tropical plants and flowers. It looks almost designed. Several times, I cross the creek to continue on the other side.

Madagascar - The natural waters of the Black Lagoons

Here too, the steps are carved from the rock. At the end of the canyon are two small pools where one can swim—the Black and Blue Lagoons. Both pools lie there idyllically. However, I decide not to go into the water; it’s said to be even colder than this morning’s Piscine Naturelle. I walk back along the same route to the campsite. When I tell one of the spotters that I haven’t seen the brown lemur yet, he gestures for me to follow him. He walks two bends and says, “Look!” I see a group of six brown red-faced lemurs leaping from branch to branch. Meanwhile, a group of ring-tailed lemurs passes along the ground. It’s magnificent to watch.