Madagascar > Playing football with local youth

I pack my bag again. Today I’m going to Antsirabe. The handle of my bag was damaged during the flight, and lifting it onto the roof caused part of it to break off. There’s no fixing it now. I decide to leave the handle behind. I can still pull the bag behind me, but no longer with an extended handle. It’s not ideal, but it works. The road to Antsirabe partly follows the same route as two days ago. I retrace the path through the hilly landscape back toward the capital, Antananarivo. I’m beginning to get used to the view of rice fields and the villages along the way. I notice that people generally look well cared-for. I don’t see children in worn-out clothes like I have in some other African countries. At the end of the morning, the bus enters Antananarivo again. I recognize the streets from two days ago. The bus stops at a large supermarket. Zoe goes shopping for lunch, giving me the opportunity to have a drink at a terrace café. Judging by the luxury shops in the shopping hall, only the well-off come here. After the stop, we continue south. Looking at the map, I estimate I’m about halfway there. The landscape flattens out, and the road goes from village to village, which sometimes requires heavy braking.

Madagascar - A woman proudly poses with her children in front of her shop

I notice an unusually high number of cyclists along the route. Some have pigs loaded on the back or large bundles of hay. In each village I pass, there are also several surprisingly large churches. Zoe explains that about half the population is Catholic and the other half Protestant. Occasionally I also see a mosque. I had expected Islam to have more followers here, as in East Africa. At a small lake, we stop for a picnic—a nice spot to eat a sandwich. I fill my baguette with tomatoes, cheese, and sardines. Further along, a Malagasy family is celebrating. They dance to music from the car radio. Today is the grandmother’s birthday. When I get back on the bus, there’s still a long drive ahead. A typical travel day is always a bit of a shame, but also necessary. Fortunately, Zoe occasionally decides to make stops. During one stop, the bus drives ahead while I walk a short stretch along the main road. A group of schoolchildren comes running enthusiastically but stays at a safe distance. They can be persuaded to play soccer.

Madagascar - Cars made from leftover materials are sold to earn money

One of the boys has a ball made of bits of cloth. I run after them through the dusty sand. Soon it’s everyone against me. Further along, we stop briefly in another village. Walking along the road, I attract a lot of attention. Boys play table football, others play dominoes. Behind the church, children play soccer, and the dust from the field swirls beautifully in the light of the setting sun. I take a look at the local church. Inside, it is simply furnished. Back on the route, I greet several people. It seems as if the whole village has come out to watch. On the other side of the village, I get back on the bus. A nice stop. By now, it’s half past five, and the sun disappears behind the hills. The twilight gives the landscape a completely different appearance. It’s already dark when I enter Antsirabe, making the town look messy. Tomorrow afternoon, I will explore the center. My accommodation for today is a few kilometers outside the center. Around seven o’clock, Faly drives the bus onto the grounds of guesthouse Madalief. This guesthouse is run by Rémy, a Dutch woman. She welcomes me and offers a welcome drink. My room looks fine, and dinner in the evening is well prepared. A traditional Malagasy meal has been prepared especially for our group.