Brazil > Dois Rios by Mountain Bike

We are staying three nights on Ilha Grande. Today, I decided to rent a mountain bike. Together with a fellow traveler, I go to Dois Rios on the ocean side of the island. Ilha Grande used to be a prison island. During the military regime, political opponents were imprisoned in the Penal Candido Mendes prison in Dois Rios. In 1964, the government changed, and the prison was no longer used. The island of Ilha Grande became more popular with tourists and ecotourism. In 1994, the government decided to blow up the remains of the prison. They probably wanted to prevent the prison from becoming a tourist attraction. Nowadays, you can visit the ruins, and there is a small museum about the prison and the political prisoners. The bike rental is located just behind the small church of Abraão. There are two types of mountain bikes: bikes with disc brakes and bikes with rim brakes. The disc brakes are more expensive. I choose the more expensive mountain bike. That seems safer in the mountains. The route to the other side of the island goes over the mountain ridge. This means first climbing to a height of 350 meters, then descending to Dois Rios. Just outside Abraão, the unpaved gravel road goes uphill. I put my gears on the lowest setting. As I pedal, the bike slowly climbs the hill. I estimate the slope at four to five percent continuously. There is no flat section on the route. Soon I notice the climb is tough. My legs really don’t want to go on. I try to find the flattest parts of the road and avoid the stones. Occasionally, I have to take a break. During a break, hikers pass me. I hadn’t seen them before. Does that mean they climb the hill faster than I do by bike? When I’m back on the bike, I slowly ride past them. Fortunately, I see the top looming ahead. I shift to the bigger chainring. I sit a bit further back on my saddle, lean my weight backward, and bend my elbows to absorb shocks during the descent. The downhill ride goes much easier. Still, I limit my speed. Because of the stones on the road, I could easily be thrown if I hit a stone wrong. I safely enter Vila de Dois Rios. A guard beckons me. He is standing with a list ready. We have to write down our names. He will fill in the time of arrival, he says. He probably keeps track of who comes and goes. I continue riding to the beach. It’s a bit cloudy, and the entire beach is practically deserted. I ride my mountain bike onto the beach. At the end, I see people walking. Maybe they can take a photo of us. The first attempt doesn’t go well.

Brazil - Mountain biking on the beach of Dois Rios

The older man is walking with his granddaughter. It seems he has never taken a photo with a phone before. Based on the instructions, he manages to take some photos anyway. We can’t blame him for the horizon being crooked. A bit further, we try again with a group of young people. This photo shoot goes better. In the center, against the wall of a prison, there is a small restaurant. I’ve earned a cold cola. In the former prison, a small, rather meaningless museum is housed. This is not the museum we are looking for. At the end of the road stands a large white building. This turns out to be the entrance to the former prison. The guard shows us where to park our bikes. Then we first have to write our names in the registration book. A girl then shows us to the exhibition space. In four rooms, a varied collection is on display. Although everything is only in Portuguese, I understand that it is about the political prisoners. I see wood carvings they made during their imprisonment. In photos, I see how the prison must have looked. The purpose of the room with a plastic robot made of soda bottles escapes me. Outside, I look at the remains of the buildings. The concrete ruins tell the history of the prison. The wall with inscriptions and the watchtowers are still intact. I take my bike again and prepare for the return trip. The guard at the village entrance is nowhere to be seen. It is probably important to register every visitor upon arrival and departure, but not during the lunch break. For a moment, we consider leaving a note ourselves, but decide against it. We still have a long trip ahead. Just outside Dois Rios, the road climbs. I decided to cycle as long as possible. That plan doesn’t last long. After only a few hundred meters, I stop on the bike. I have to get off. I feel completely empty. I walk further. Maybe this is faster. On the less steep parts, I occasionally ride a little bit on the bike, but most of the climb I walk. I don’t think this slope is steeper than this morning’s. I just can’t get the pedals to turn. By walking and cycling a bit, I reach the top again. It took me only five minutes longer than this morning. I make up those five minutes during the descent. I descend the mountain a bit faster. I stay alert for stones and protruding rocks. Safely and without falling, I enter the village of Abraão again shortly before two o’clock. I return the bike to the rental. In Portuguese, he wants to know if it went well. With some gestures, I explain that we made it to the prison. I skip the beach part because I didn’t think the sand was good for the chain and gears. Maybe that’s why my return trip was harder. He gives me a firm handshake. Behind him stands his daughter, no older than two years. Proudly, he shows off his 'Alice.' At the hotel pool, all fellow travelers report on their activities today. The waterfall, Lopes Mendes, or just relaxing. These days were a good preparation for Rio. Tomorrow, I travel to Rio de Janeiro. I’m looking forward to it.

Brazil - A cozy restaurant in Isla Grande