Brazil > Hiking Along the Beaches

In the hotel lobby, I meet Philippe again. He is an enthusiastic guide and speaks good English. He first leads me to the supermarket. Here, I buy some muesli bars for tomorrow’s lunch and extra water. Then I follow him to the bus station. Today is a national holiday in Brazil. The bus station is extra busy. Long lines are waiting for a bus ride to the beach. Some young people stand in line holding coolers full of drinks. They already have beer in their hands. It’s not even ten o’clock yet. When they realize we’re from the Netherlands, the whole group chants “Hollanda, Hollanda.” Luckily, we don’t have to take the same bus. The waiting line is far too long to fit in one bus. The remaining people have to wait for the next bus half an hour later (if they fit in that one, that is). Our bus arrives. We all fit in. The bus leaves Paraty and picks up several people along the way. After about an hour, the bus enters the private estate of Laranjeiras. Very wealthy Brazilians live here. “Especially politicians have houses here,” Philippe says. Large seaworthy yachts lie in front of the houses. The estate is carefully guarded. Just behind the private resort is the end of the bus line.

Brazil - By local bus to the start of the trek

I get off the bus. I follow the guide into the forest. Today, we have a fairly easy eight-kilometer trek along several beaches. We stay overnight in Punto Negro, a small fishing village on a bay. From there, we can take an optional trip tomorrow to the Cachoeira do Saco Bravo waterfall. Around noon, we arrive at Praia do Sono beach. Several campsites lie here by the sea. At one of the beach bars, we put down our bags. I put on my swim shorts and take a dip in the seawater. The surf is strong. Especially after a wave breaks, the retreating water pulls strongly back out to sea. It takes effort to stay standing. As I come out of the water and dry myself, Philippe prepares lunch. Lunch consists of fish, rice, and salad. It tastes good. A good base for the afternoon part of the trek. “I’m about one-third through the trek now,” Philippe explains. To reach Punto Negro, I still have to cross three mountains. The path runs through the rainforest. In some places, wooden steps have been made. Elsewhere, stones and tree roots form the steps. Some parts of the path are muddy. I try carefully to avoid the slippery parts. Still, I can’t prevent clay from sticking under my shoes. I immediately notice I have less grip on the stones. The next beach we come to is Praia de Antigos. According to Philippe, it’s the most beautiful beach of the trek. The white beach is completely deserted. Probably because it is so hard to reach. Water flows from a stream into the beach. In a natural pool in this river, swimming is possible. I take a dip in the fresh water. Other travel companions prefer to keep walking. They think this stop, right after lunch, is too early. While I follow the group with Philippe, he mumbles that the group doesn’t bother to enjoy the most beautiful beach of today’s trek. From the beach, the route goes up through low vegetation. The sun beats down, and there is no shelter. I walk up at a steady pace. Because of the high humidity, it is a tough hike. Water streams off me. Looking around at the group, I’m not the only one.

Brazil - View of Praia do Sono beach

The beautiful route makes up for a lot. The views over the bays are fabulous. Late in the afternoon, I arrive in Punta Negro. I stop at the yellow parasols and yellow chairs on the beach. “We’ll eat here later today,” Philippe says. This restaurant is affiliated with the accommodation, but they don’t sell beer here for principled reasons. In the nearby bar, I can order beer. It’s no problem to drink it at the first terrace. The beer is written down under my name. I say I want to pay. “Mañana, Mañana, Tomorrow,” they say. I don’t succeed in paying. I don’t know how the walk will go tomorrow, but somewhere along the way, I still have to find a moment to pay. After the drink, Philippe takes me to the accommodation. The cabins lie a bit higher in the village. Via a stone path, I reach the white-painted lodgings. We are divided over four cabins. I sleep in a simple but decent place with three beds, shower, and toilet. At most, a mosquito net would be useful. The gaps in the wooden walls don’t keep out insects. We decide to keep the lights off as much as possible. At seven o’clock, dinner is ready by the beach. The sun has just set, and a beautiful orange glow shines over Praia de Ponta Negra. Boys play soccer in the twilight on the beach. Dishes with fish in shrimp sauce, rice, and salad appear on the table. A delicious dinner in a beautiful location. Although it is not yet nine o’clock, I go to bed after eating. It was an exhausting day.