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Travelogue Uruguay Argentina and Brazil

September 26 October 20 2019 (25 days)


Brazil > Snorkeling among the Fish

Dag 12 - Monday 7 October 2019

In the area around Bonito, there are many caves, lakes, and crystal-clear rivers. Tourism has only really started in recent years, after a Brazilian TV series was filmed here similar to Expedition Robinson. Tourism is set up ecologically. Groups are kept small, and the maximum number of visitors per day is limited. About forty kilometers outside Bonito lies the Buraco das Araras sinkhole. Thousands of years ago, an underground lake formed beneath the marlstone. Water seeped through the rocky bottom. When the lake dried up, pieces of rock broke off due to the water streams. Eventually, the entire cave collapsed, creating a hundred-meter-deep pit in the landscape—a sinkhole. Its diameter is over one hundred fifty meters. The sinkhole provides ideal shelter for birds. As I walk toward the Buraco das Araras sinkhole, I already see several macaws sitting in the trees. The guide doesn’t even stop. I will probably see even more there. Indeed, this turns out to be the case. From the edge of the sinkhole, I see dozens of macaws. They regularly fly a circle to land on the rock face on the opposite side.

Brazil - Birds shelter in the hundredmeter deep sinkhole

Most macaws fly in pairs. Some younger parrots fly in small groups, almost like formation flying. The colors of their wings reflect beautifully in the sunlight. I walk around the sinkhole. There is also a viewpoint on the other side. I see a toucan and some ibises. When a bird of prey appears above the crater, all the macaws fly up. At least twenty-five colorful birds seek shelter. A magnificent sight. Back in Bonito, I get off in the center. I look for a "cabeleireiro," a barber. I have to show the word a few times on my phone to passersby before I find a barber shop. I manage to make the man understand that I want some taken off. Only the question whether the clipper should be set to level two, three, or four means nothing to me. No idea how much will be cut off. Together, we decide to start with "three." The rest will be done with scissors anyway. About fifteen minutes later, I walk back out freshly cut. I buy a sandwich in the center and eat it in the hotel garden. In the afternoon, the second excursion is planned around Bonito: snorkeling in the Rio da Prata.

Brazil - A haircut at the hairdresser in Bonito

Because of the extremely clear water of the Rio da Prata, you can swim among the fish. Yvonnetz is the guide of my small group. However, she doesn’t speak a word of English. Probably because I enthusiastically said "ola" on behalf of our group, she looks at me hopefully to translate her explanation to the other travelers. Although I don’t understand any of the explanation, I gather from the hand gestures and previous snorkeling experience that it’s best to spit into your mask to prevent it from fogging— but only do this in the river, not in the pool where we’re practicing. Also, if you want to rest, turn onto your back with your feet up. Standing on the bottom disturbs underwater life. I follow Yvonnetz along a walking path to the start of the river.

Brazil - Swimming in the crystal clear water of Rio de Prata

I enter the clear water. Around me, I immediately see several kinds of fish. The larger fish seem not to mind me at all. The smaller fish swim curiously past my diving mask. I feel like I’m in an aquarium. How beautiful this is. The water level is lower than I expected. Sometimes I pass very close to water plants. In some places, the depth is less than thirty centimeters. Yvonnetz swims ahead. She picks twigs from the side and gives me one as well. Immediately, fish come to the twigs. They quickly nibble pieces of the leaves while I drift with the current. Underwater life is all around me. In a deeper part, a dorado fish swims by. After about forty minutes, I reach a pier, the end point. I get out of the water again. Yvonnetz takes the group to a wider part of the river. Several smaller waterfalls flow here. There is a zipline hanging. From a platform, I slide over the water and let myself drop halfway with a big splash. A funny ending to a very enjoyable activity.

Brazil - A cozy end to the day

BuquebusThe ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia
El CabildoThe colonial El Cabildo at Plaza de Mayo
Meeting FlavioHaving a beer with Flavio from Brazil
Flight KL701The plane is ready for the flight to Buenos Aires