Brazil > To Praia de Lopes Mendes

On the east side of Abraão beach begins a hiking trail to one of the most beautiful beaches on Ilha Grande. Praia Lopes Mendes beach lies on the other side of the island, on the ocean side. Due to the surf, the beach is difficult to reach by taxi boats. The only way to get there is a walking path from Pouso to Lopes Mendes. Many tourists take the boat to Pouso. I don’t. I walk to the beach. A trail of six kilometers, but due to the mountains and beaches, it is certainly a three-hour hike. At half past nine, I set off with a small group. The first obstacle is already on the beach. A small stream flows into the sea. I estimate the water flow to be shallow and decide not to take off my shoes. Wrong. The stream is just a few centimeters too deep, and I arrive on the other side with two wet shoes. Annoying. I continue walking on the sand and hope the sun will dry my shoes quickly. At the end of the sand, a path leads upward into the forest. Several signs indicate that the route to Lopes Mendes starts here. A few Chilean girls ahead of me probably want me to take a photo of them. Without any explanation or question, they shove a mobile phone into my hands. I take the photo. The route steadily climbs. Because of the mountains on the island, you always have to cross a ridge. The first climb of the day is also the highest. Over rocks, tree trunks, and sandy paths, I reach the top. The trail is much more gradual than in Paraty. This makes it easier and more enjoyable to walk. At the highest point, there is a lookout post. To get here, I have to climb a steep clay-like path. I climb up using branches and trees. I wonder how I will get back down.

Brazil - View of the bay during the walk

From the top, I look out over the bay of Abraão. I see the beach, the boulevard, the surrounding mountains, and the bay. A magnificent sight. Carefully, I return safely to the path. I begin the descent to Praia de Palmas. Upon entering the beach, I am immediately besieged by offers for boat tickets. The three o’clock boat is already full, they say alarmingly. The recommended boats only sail on the hour. I had understood that boats sail on the half-hour. These are probably different operators. I decline the offer and decide to see later how I can get tickets. It’s still about a forty-minute walk to the next beach: Praia de Pouso. Boats from Abraão dock here. On a terrace, I order a cola. Again, only the more expensive boats on the hour are offered. When I say I want to go at half past three, that is possible too. A ticket is issued for half past three. Is this reliable? We take the risk and buy tickets for the return trip. But I’m not at my final destination yet. To reach Lopes Mendes beach, I walk over the last mountain slope. This brings me to the other side of the island. In the trees, I am watched by brush-tailed monkeys. The little animals are not afraid. They come close to the path. Two young monkeys, no more than ten centimeters long, are playing behind their mother’s back. I walk onto Praia de Lopes Mendes. It is a beautiful wide beach. The high waves in the clear blue water crash onto the shore. On both sides, the bay is surrounded by rocks.

Brazil - The beautiful and quiet beach of Praia de Palmas

A strong wind blows from the ocean. The red flag, warning of dangerous currents, flutters in the wind. Because of the high waves, you can be pulled out to sea. The fine white sand is notably soft. I lay down my towel to sunbathe. I also cautiously take a dip. I don’t go further into the sea than one meter deep. Here, I already feel the power of the waves. I have to struggle to stay upright. Under the trees in the shade, I let myself dry again. The fine beach sand also has a downside. It gets everywhere and sticks. Just brushing it off barely helps. With some beach sand still in my shoes, I walk back to the boat. We thought it wise to be at the pier on time. Probably many people want to take the half-past three boat. This is the first boat of the day returning. At half past four and half past five, two more boats follow. Because some people are going canoeing later, we have to take this boat. We are practically first on the pier. The queue behind us grows steadily. When the boat arrives, the queue reaches the beach. We made a good choice. Although, everyone waiting still fits on board. From Pouso Bay to Abraão is exactly one hour by boat. At the hotel, Martin is already waiting for the kayak group for tonight. “Don’t you want to come paddling?” he asks. There is room, and he could use some power. I decline. I take a nice warm shower in my room. Other travelers have gone boating around the island’s bays and snorkeled there. Others relaxed by the pool or went shopping.