Argentina > Walking to La Boca

It rains at night. It rains hard and it rains for a long time. When I want to walk to the restaurant across the street for breakfast in the morning, it’s still raining. Large drops fall from the sky, and big puddles cover the street. I dash across the road, leaping over the puddles. At breakfast, I meet fellow traveler René, who also arrived in Buenos Aires yesterday. Together, we wait for the other travelers. A little after nine, slightly later than expected, the group arrives. I get acquainted with my travel companions and Marion, our tour guide. Marion gives a short briefing about the trip. She explains the program for the coming days, how much money I will need, and offers a few safety and drinking water warnings. At ten o’clock, Alex is ready. He takes the group on a city walk through Buenos Aires. On the Plaza de Mayo, he tells us the history of the buildings surrounding the square: the cathedral, the colonial El Cabildo, and the most important building, the Casa Rosada. From its balcony, the popular Evita Duarte de Perón, wife of President Juan Perón, addressed the Argentine people in the late 1940s: “Don’t cry for me Argentina.” Dictator Jorge Videla also led his reign of terror from here. The square is often the scene of demonstrations. Almost daily, protests take place for or against something.

Argentina - The statue honoring the founder of Argentina Peru and Chile

As a precaution, the police can close off part of the square with fences. The entrance to the cathedral is also surrounded by fencing, so it can be protected during protests. From the Plaza de Mayo, we walk eastwards via Defence Street. This street recalls the brief time in 1906 when the British held power in Buenos Aires. It leads to the San Telmo neighborhood. The squares here often have markets, terraces, and lively activity. Today, it’s drizzling, gray, and cold. Almost no one is outside. We stop for coffee in one of the cafés to warm up. San Telmo transitions into the La Boca district. The houses in La Boca immediately look poorer. Dilapidated houses stand empty, and there’s plenty of graffiti. The yellow-and-black Boca Juniors stadium stands out handsomely among them. Maradona began his football career in this stadium and is honored with various murals. Behind the stadium lies the colorful area for which La Boca is now famous. In the past, migrants built houses from leftover materials, often corrugated metal sheets, painted in bright colors.

Argentina - The colorful artist district La Boca

Today, the neighborhood is trendy, home to artists, with most activity aimed at tourists. Alex is an enthusiastic storyteller. Although we’ve only covered two and a half kilometers, more than four hours have passed. We take a city bus back to the Plaza de Mayo. On the Avenida de Mayo, I step into a restaurant for lunch. It’s after four when I return to the hotel. The rooms for my fellow travelers are ready. Most retreat to their rooms, tired from the flight and the city tour. I head into the city center. The Centro Cultural Kirchner is once again closed to visitors today. “Tomorrow,” the security guard says—something I also heard yesterday. The streets are busy; many commuters are heading home. Long lines form at bus stops, and everyone patiently joins the back of the queue. Via the Florida shopping street, I walk to the wide Avenida 9 de Julio. Argentines call this the widest road in the world. Ten lanes of traffic lead west, and ten east, with another four dedicated bus lanes—two in each direction—in between. I cross the wide avenue in stages, heading to the Teatro Colón, where opera performances are held. In the middle of the avenue stands the Obelisk, erected in 1936 to commemorate the city’s 400th anniversary. On the Avenida de Mayo is one of the oldest cafés in Buenos Aires: Tortoni. The café dates back to 1858. In its 19th-century interior, I order a beer and enjoy watching the tourists coming and going. In the evening, I have dinner with a few fellow travelers on the same street.

Argentina - Tortoni from 1858 is the oldest cafe in Buenos Aires