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June 721 2019 (15 days)
I leave the island of Lefkas again via the pontoon bridge, which connects the narrow passage between the mainland and the island of Lefkas. In fact, the pontoon bridge is nothing more than a ferry that touches both banks when the loading ramps are lowered. When a boat needs to pass, the ferry moves aside briefly. The bus carefully drives over the bridge. On the mainland, we set course for Delphi. Today will mostly be a travel day through the beautiful Greek landscape. At Vonitsa, we reach the Ambracian Gulf. From the pier, I look up at the Venetian fort perched on higher ground. We follow the gulf toward Amfilochia, where there is time for coffee. Since I just sat on the bus, I decide to take a walk around. I look at the shops and politely greet some older men sitting on a terrace. I hear a church bell ringing. Through the narrow streets, I arrive at the church. Schoolchildren are having a sports day in the church square. I walk back toward the water. Nafpaktos is a place where heavy fighting took place in 1571. The combined forces of the Habsburgs, Venetians, and Spaniards attacked the Ottomans and defeated them at the Battle of Lepanto.
The impressive fort above the city is a reminder of this time. In the picturesque little harbor, children jump off the pier into the sea while others enjoy the sun on the pebble beach. Since I only have half an hour in Nafpaktos, I quickly climb the steps to the citadel. From the castle wall, I have a beautiful view over the town and the Gulf of Corinth. I walk to the Babylon bell tower, which is completely covered in graffiti. What a shame. Through narrow streets and little stairways, I return to the harbor. A little further along the coast, we pause for lunch. After that, the last stretch to Delphi follows. Just before entering the town, Jessy has some unpleasant news. Mantos, the driver, is driving for the last time today. She explains that this sometimes happens on longer trips. Mantos is visibly upset and says he doesn’t understand why he has to leave. He claims he is not a bad driver. With almost tears in his eyes, he says he has never experienced anything like this in ten years. I feel for him as I say goodbye at the hotel. I thank him for teaching me some Greek words. The underlying reason remains unclear to me as well. Just outside Delphi is the Temple of Athena Pronaia, perhaps the most famous image of Delphi. I walk there in about half an hour. Three columns of a round Tholos temple still stand.
Circular buildings are rare in ancient Greek architecture. Next to the temple is an information board. Consideration has even been given to the visually impaired: a small iron plate with Braille code. Now, it is already a challenge to walk the rocky path if your vision is poor, but then to have to run your finger over an iron plate that has been baking in the sun all afternoon? Who comes up with this? In the evening, after dinner, I have a beer on a terrace and let the atmosphere of Delphi sink in. Tomorrow I will visit the sacred Temple of Apollo. I am looking forward to it.