Greece > Sailing on the Ionian Sea

Hotel Lafkada is situated in a prominent location. It lies directly on the square where you arrive on the island. From the outside, the hotel looks stately and luxurious. As I get closer, I see that the building’s reputation has faded. The entrance doors are weathered from the sea air, the reception looks messy, and the breakfast buffet is simply arranged. The room, on the other hand, is fine. I freshen up under a pleasant rain shower with a constant temperature. For me, this room is the best so far. Other travel companions have had less fortunate experiences with their rooms: no towels, bathrooms that flood, and even rooms with possible bedbugs. The island of Lefkas is about thirty-five kilometers across. On the northern side lies the fishing village of Nidri. In the harbor, I board the boat Odysseus. The skipper enthusiastically welcomes me aboard—a real captain with a beard and a handkerchief tied around his head. The wooden ship has a touch of the old sailing ships. This boat is more enjoyable for cruising the Ionian Sea than the colossal tour boats also docked in the harbor. However, when I get on board, many seats are already taken. I take a spot on the cushions at the bow. To my surprise, more people keep coming on board. I thought the boat was already full. With about a hundred tourists on board, the captain sets off at half past nine for a tour of the smaller islands around Lefkas. The weather is beautiful. For safety, I apply sunscreen once more. I think today it can’t be applied too often. Meanwhile, the captain invites everyone to dance to Greek music.

Greece - The boat sails practically into the Papanikolis cave

I watch from the foredeck. We sail past the island of Meganisi, where the white chalk cliffs are clearly visible. They reflect beautifully in the clear sea water. Lefkas, which means “white” in Greek, owes its name to this rocky coast. We arrive at the Papanikolis Cave, a ten-meter-high cave opening on the sea side. The captain carefully steers the stern of the ship into the cave—a precise maneuver. He stops only when the mast is less than a meter from the rocks. The gangplank at the back of the ship is lowered, and it’s time to swim. I jump from the railing into the water. Below me, the sea is crystal clear; I can see down about five meters to the seabed. I swim into the cave. The reflection of the rocks in the water creates beautiful colors. On the other side of the island lies the small village of Spartohori. The village is accessible via a stone staircase of one hundred and fifty steps. The narrow streets exude Greek life. Men ride scooters down the hill; they don’t need to use the engine while descending. At the highest point of the village stands an Orthodox church. The original church was destroyed by fire, but a benefactor ensured it was rebuilt in a modern form. Inside, the iconostasis stands proudly. It survived the fire, while the rest of the church features beautiful new frescoes. As the ouzo circulates on board, we continue to a secluded beach. Here, a barbecue is ready, and there’s an opportunity to swim or relax on the beach under an umbrella. The lunch is well organized. The salad is already served on plates, and the meat is distributed—no empty scraped dishes. A glass of red Lefkadian wine completes the meal. The boat tour progresses in a relaxed atmosphere.

Greece - The boat Odysseus is moored at the beach

Plenty of time is taken everywhere. Nothing is rushed. Around three o’clock, all the umbrellas are folded up, and everyone is back on board. The tour continues around the island of Skorpios. This small island became famous in 1962 when the wealthy Greek shipping magnate Onassis bought it for private ownership. In 2013, his heirs sold the island to Russian billionaire Rybolovleva. It is still not allowed to set foot on the island, except for two small beaches. In Greece, beaches are supposed to be freely accessible to everyone. At one of these beaches, the captain docks. The beach is at most thirty meters long and less than three meters wide. A fence separates the pebble beach from the island. I grab a snorkel and swim around the boat, seeing a few fish below me. The underwater world is not particularly spectacular. As we sail back to Nidri, I let myself dry off again. The crew lowers the sail. Because there is hardly any wind, the captain apologizes that the sea is mainly for the photos. At the end of the afternoon, I set foot on the Nidri boulevard once more.

Greece - Evening falls over Lefkada