Greece > Through the Mountains to Nafplio

Today is a free day in the program—a free day in Tolo. There is an option to take a boat to the islands of Hydra and Spetses. This excursion lasts the entire day. Since I already went on a boat trip last week, I skip this option. Instead, I decide to go on a long mountain hike to Nafplion. Nafplion was the first capital after the Greek War of Independence in 1832. I found a hike online that covers over fifteen kilometers through the mountains, ending at the fortress of Nafplion. At quarter to nine, I leave the hotel. I start by walking along the beach. Tolo’s beach is a narrow strip of sand, nowhere wider than ten meters. Most places only have room for two beach chairs side by side. It is still quiet on the beach; only a few people venture into the sea. At the hotel terraces, tourists enjoy their breakfast. I cut across to the main street and turn toward the cemetery. Immediately outside Tolo, the road climbs steeply. For a moment, I wonder what I’ve gotten myself into. Behind me, Tolo quickly shrinks in the distance. The view over the bay is magnificent. Yesterday, when I told the receptionist I planned to walk to Nafplion and asked if a map was available, she thought I was crazy. What made it more difficult was that no map existed. When I showed the route on my phone, her husband remarked that the route passed an old garbage dump. As I near the top, this becomes clear—illegal trash is scattered everywhere.

Greece - The hiking route to Nafplion

What a mess. Over dozens of meters, the waste is piled up. Perhaps fortunately, a little further along, the road is blocked by a gate and a stop sign. I can pass, but cars cannot. Immediately, the trash dumps stop. Just over the top, I encounter a second gate—this must be the old landfill. The mountain has been covered with plastic and sand. The gate is closed, and the road ends here. I follow a small path along the fence and shortly after rejoin the original route. The path descends quickly. I descend cautiously; the loose stones make slipping easy. At the bottom, I come to the remains of an old tower, partially collapsed. Behind it lies a small hidden monastery. The gate to the courtyard is open, but the church is closed. Behind the church is a tiny chapel. I continue along the asphalt road through the valley. The weather is beautiful, with a gentle breeze now and then. I see no one; everything seems abandoned. Occasionally, I hear noises from the bushes. Judging by the droppings, goats must roam here too. Although I don’t see the animals, they are probably watching me from the shadows. I pass some dilapidated houses. Music blares from an olive grove. From a distance, I can hear the Greek music already, yet I see no one. The neighbor has the same station on, at the same volume. It feels a little lonely. The road turns into a cart track and then into a gravel path. At the Panagia Theotokou monastery, I turn off. In the distance, I see the first houses of Nafplion. At the top of the rock, I see the castle. Without a map of the area, I have to check my route on my phone constantly. With navigation, I can reasonably follow the path. Once, I go wrong, taking the wrong path toward the castle. Only when the road dead-ends do I realize I should have taken the next one. I have no choice but to walk back to the start of the path. When I turn around, I notice the sky darkening. Dark clouds hang over Tolo, and I even think I hear thunder. Where I am now is not a safe place to be during a storm. It seems the storm will pass beside me, not over me. I decide to continue the route to the castle. After four hours of walking, the Palamidi fortress of Nafplion appears ahead, over 200 meters above the city.

Greece - The large Palamidi fort of Nafplion

The fortress, from the second Venetian occupation, is one of the largest in Greece. There are eight bastions in total. Each bastion could be defended independently if parts of the complex were captured. This did little to help: in 1715, the Turks besieged the fortress and took it within a week. The view from the castle walls over the city below is stunning. I entered the castle via the parking lot at the rear. Many tourists climb the more than nine hundred steps from the center of Nafplion to the fortress. I use this exit and descend the stairs back to the city. As I go down, I notice I’m getting tired. I’m also out of water. A Swiss couple offers me some. Eventually, I arrive in Nafplion around one o’clock. I buy a bottle of water and a cola and feel revived. I walk up the peninsula, where more fortifications lie. Offshore is Bourdzi castle on an island. From this castle, the Venetians could protect the harbor. A chain could once block the shipping channel from the castle. The center of Nafplion is paved with white marble, giving the Syntagma Square and the adjacent park extra charm. I stroll through the streets and across the square. I look for the bus station to return to Tolo. It should be at the end of the square, and I expect to see buses there. When I ask, I realize I’ve already walked about five hundred meters past it. At the station, there are only two buses, easy to miss. At half past two, I board the bus. The driver gestures that I don’t need to pay him; I understand this will happen later. Two stops later, the ticket seller boards and handles the tickets between Nafplion and Tolo. When I enter Tolo, I have to figure out where to get off. My hotel is fairly far up the main street. The bus stops at a nearby stop where I see familiar shops. I get off. I haven’t had lunch yet, so I head to the beach for a sandwich. I also feel that after this impressive hike, I have more than earned a beer. Fortunately, it has stayed dry today.

Greece - The hotel in Tolo