Greece > The Monasteries of Mystras

When I open the balcony door, I look out over the sunny bay of Pylos. It’s not yet seven o’clock, but activity is already starting on the square. For the Greeks, today is Whit Monday. In Greece, this is celebrated one week later than in the Netherlands, following the Julian calendar. Whit Monday is an Orthodox holiday in Greece, fifty days after Easter. Many shops are closed. The old Byzantine city of Mystras, however, is open. Mystras is sometimes called the Florence of Greece. In 1249, Crusader Villehardouin built a fortress on a rock over 600 meters high. Inhabitants of nearby Sparta settled at the foot of the rock, relying on his protection. The Byzantines forced Villehardouin to cede the newly formed city. Mystras then developed into a Byzantine city, expanded with churches, monasteries, and palaces. In the centuries that followed, the Turks took over the administration of the city, then the Venetians, and in 1715 the Turks again. During the Greek War of Independence at the end of the 18th century, the city was destroyed and burned to the ground on the orders of the Turks. Many residents fled to the new Sparta, and Mystras became a ghost town. At the end of the morning, I arrive at Mystras. Everyone can explore the city independently. I start at the upper entrance, from where I climb to the castle, Villehardouin’s original fortress. Today is slightly cooler than previous days, but I feel the exertion.

Greece - The frescoes depict the life of Jesus

From the castle, I have a view of the lower old city of Mystras, where I can see several monasteries and churches. I wander through the fortress, walking over the remnants of the old castle walls. I don’t spend much time at the castle itself; I need to be at the lower exit by 1:30 PM. In the meantime, I also want to see the monasteries, churches, and palaces. I leave the castle and descend through Mystras. The first building I come across is the Agia Sophia church. Passing the remains of the Nicholas church, I arrive at the Despot’s Palace, where the Byzantine rulers once governed the city. The palace is under renovation and cannot be visited. I pass through the Monemvasia Gate, the passage between the upper and lower city. Approaching the Pantanassa Monastery, I am surrounded by a colorful display of flowers. This is the only inhabited monastery in Mystras. A few nuns live here and maintain the garden around the monastery. The church at the monastery is magnificent, with a ceiling entirely covered in frescoes depicting the life of Jesus. Outside the church, we meet an elderly nun. I don’t understand what she wants to say, and she doesn’t understand us. She gestures toward a room and brings out a tray of sweets.

Greece - The oldest church of Mystras

We thank her warmly. Following a stone staircase, I reach the Perivleptos Monastery, partially carved into the rock, with a beautiful location. I still have two buildings I want to see in Mystras. The first is the Metropolis Church, the oldest church in Mystras. Finally, I visit the Vrontochion Monastery, a bit off the main path. It consists of two church buildings: the Agioi Theodoroi, the church with the largest dome in Mystras, and the Afentiko Church, richly decorated with frescoes. At exactly 1:30 PM, I exit through the gates of Mystras. Despite the limited time, I have managed to see all the buildings. Satisfied, I head to a restaurant for lunch. In the afternoon, we drive to Tolo, a journey of about two hours. Tolo is a seaside town on the Gulf of Argolis, where I will stay for the next three nights. Upon entering the small town, it is clear that everything is oriented toward water recreation. Along the main road are numerous restaurants, terraces, and souvenir shops—a true seaside resort. The center looks lively. The Todo Holiday Hotel is just one hundred meters from the beach. From its slightly elevated position, the bay is clearly visible. I skip the hotel pool and walk to the boulevard. At the beach, I order a beer—a perfect spot to reflect on the experiences of the day.