Greece > The Games of Olympia

At the entrance to Olympia, I meet Saskia. Today she is guiding our travel group through the ancient city. Saskia used to be a tour leader but met a Greek man and has now been living in Greece for 23 years. In Olympia, the ancient sanctuary of the god Zeus, games were held every four years. Athletes from all corners of the Greek world gathered in Olympia. Wars were even paused so that athletes could participate in the games. These games were held for 1,200 years, taking place a total of 293 times. In 394 AD, the tradition came to an end. By imperial decree, the games were banned for being too pagan. The temples were destroyed, and over time, earthquakes and floods left Olympia in ruins, buried and abandoned. It wasn’t until 1875 that Olympia was rediscovered, and excavations began. In 1896, the Olympic Games were revived—not in Olympia, but every four years in a different country and city, with Athens hosting the first modern Olympics. I follow Saskia into Olympia. At a colonnade, she explains that this was once the training complex for the athletes. The wooden roof has been lost, and the columns have been reconstructed. Behind them was the workshop where statues were made, and further back were the lodgings for the wealthy.

Greece - The pillars of ancient Olympia

The athletes themselves slept outdoors. Prominently in the center of the complex lies the Temple of Zeus. Originally, this temple was seventeen meters high. A reconstructed column demonstrates the impressive height. Inside once stood a twelve-meter-tall statue of the Greek god Zeus, which was moved to Constantinople in 426 AD and later lost in a palace fire. The temple itself collapsed during an earthquake, with the columns lying like dominoes. At the Temple of Hera, the Olympic flame was once lit during the games. Today, the Olympic fire is still kindled at this temple, using a parabolic reflector and sunlight. From here, the flame is transported to the city hosting the Olympic Games. A tunnel leads from the temple to the athletics stadium, where the competitions took place, Saskia continues. The gentle slope of the stadium allowed spectators to follow the athletes easily. Many of the sculptures have been moved to the nearby museum, where a reconstruction of the gallery on the front of the Temple of Zeus can be seen. Herakles, the son of Zeus, was punished by the goddess Hera. To make amends, he had to complete twelve difficult labors assigned by King Eurystheus.

Greece - The athletes entrance to the arena

Herakles successfully completed all the challenges. After lunch, we head toward the coast, driving about two hours to the seaside town of Pylos. Pylos has always been a strategically important location. In the 16th century, the Ottomans captured the town from the Venetians and built a newer, larger fortress on the hill beside the town. Despite the heat—I estimate it’s around 34 degrees Celsius today—the climb to the fortress is well worth it. From the fortress walls, I have a view of the bay, the islands off the coast, and Pylos itself. Within the walls are several museums and a Byzantine church. Behind the iconostasis, it’s clear the church once served as a mosque; the mihrab, the niche in the wall facing Mecca, is still present. At the highest point within the fortress walls stands the Acropolis—a hexagonal bastion with thick walls. During an attack, defenders could retreat into this structure. From the towers, I can survey the entire fort. Back in the town center, two people wave from a terrace. They are not fellow travelers but neighbors from Voorhout—a remarkable coincidence. Together, we have a drink. As we eat on the hotel veranda, the sun slowly sinks into the sea. The last sailing ships moor in the harbor. Evening falls. A stunning sight.

Greece - A chance meeting with the neighbors next door