China > By Train to Xiahe

I report to the breakfast buffet at 6:30 a.m. The buffet is just opening. When everyone is on the bus at 7:00 a.m., it turns out that one of our travel companions is still missing. He wasn't feeling well yesterday, and he's still unwell this morning. He hobbles over to the bus. Meanwhile, Frank is worried about the upcoming train journey. We need to get to the North Station of Xi’an. During rush hour, this could take quite some time. The bus driver understands the urgency and tries to maneuver the bus through traffic as quickly as possible. He repeatedly squeezes the bus between lines of waiting cars. To Frank’s relief, we arrive at the station just after 8:00 a.m. The train to Lanzhou departs at 9:00. This station, too, is enormous. At the entrance to platform seven, our passports must be scanned again. This takes some time, so we are among the last passengers to board the carriage. With some creative packing, we manage to stow our main luggage—some in the small storage area and others on the racks above the seats. The staff carefully check that nothing sticks out or might fall. At exactly 9:00 a.m., the high-speed train departs from Xi’an station. It quickly reaches its top speed of 250 km/h. When I look outside, the speed isn't really noticeable. In the cities we pass, I see high-rise apartment buildings. I estimate that most are about thirty stories tall. Construction is happening everywhere: new housing and new tower blocks. Around 11:45 a.m., the bullet train arrives in Lanzhou—right on time. We quickly disembark with all our luggage. Most passengers get off here. The station is huge. We have to walk quite a distance to reach the escalator to the upper level. On the third floor, our bus is waiting. The luggage is quickly loaded, as long-term parking is not allowed here. Lanzhou is known for its beef noodles. There's even a museum in the city dedicated to the dish. At a restaurant along the banks of the famous Yellow River, I order lunch. At one counter, I order the noodles and a boiled egg. I pay ten yuan—about €1.25. Then I join the queue for the noodles. It turns out I have to get the egg at another counter. Soon, I have the whole meal together. I sit down at one of the long tables in the restaurant. Around me, many locals are eating as well. The noodles taste great, although it’s always a bit tricky not to spill the strands when eating with chopsticks. After lunch, we have a short moment to cross the street and walk through the small park along the Yellow River. The Yellow River is the second-longest river in China. The broad waterway divides the city of Lanzhou in two. Then we continue driving in a southeastern direction. I close my eyes for a short nap. Around 4:30 p.m., we arrive in Xiahe. The hotel is located near the Tibetan Labrang Monastery. The streetscape also reflects the Tibetan atmosphere.

China - Men playing the game Go in Xiahe

Monks in red robes walk the streets. Not without reason is Xiahe sometimes called “Little Tibet.” A group of schoolchildren greets us. They practice a few words of English with us—no more than “How are you?” and “Nice to meet you.” We walk through the main street to the square. At the bridge, we cross the river. A group of men is playing a game in the street. Along the river sits the Snow Mountain Café. Inside, we order a beer. Afterwards, we dine at the restaurant next to the hotel. Various dishes are served: a yak meat dish, yak salad, eggplant, fried mushrooms, and noodles. Everything tastes excellent again. It’s also fun to share the dishes in the traditional Chinese way.