China > Bamboo Rafting on the Yulong River

I didn’t sleep well last night — actually the first time on this trip. Maybe I’m already starting to think too much about activities back home, now that the trip is nearing its end. I have breakfast in the room with coffee. At eight o’clock, we gather downstairs in the lobby. It turns out all the tour groups in the hotel have arranged the same meeting time. When I step into the elevator on the seventh floor, it’s already full and first goes up to the eighth and top floor. No one else can get in. Then the elevator stops at every floor, to the disappointment of people waiting with their luggage. We walk towards West Street. At the corner of this pedestrian promenade, we meet Christina. Frank had already warned us that people in Yangshuo speak very loudly. Sometimes it sounds like they’re arguing, when they shout next to each other. Christina also has a loud, almost unpleasantly loud voice. She leads us to the bikes. Some are regular city bikes, others mountain bikes. I choose a mountain bike. We follow Christina out of town.

China - Cycling to the river for bamboo rafting

Soon we turn onto a narrow path. On the left and right, I see the tall Karst mountains. Originally, we were supposed to climb Moon Hill today. Moon Hill is a mountain with a natural arch at the top. Unfortunately, it is closed, probably due to maintenance on the path. This allows us to take it easy on the bike. We arrive at the Yulong River, a tributary of the larger Li River. I see bamboo rafts carrying tourists on the water. We will also take a boat further on. Our bikes are brought to the endpoint of the bamboo trip. Two people can sit on each bamboo raft. Frank already said that pairs weighing a maximum of 180 kilograms can board. When my roommate and I just stay under 180 kilos, the limit turns out to be 20 kilos lower. That’s harder to achieve. Luckily, there is a lighter travel companion who can come with me.

China - Rafting on a bamboo raft among the Karst mountains on the Lijiang River

Other travel companions have to raft alone. Dozens of rafts are waiting in the river. We are quickly led to a raft, put on life jackets, and set off. The boatman pushes the bamboo raft with a pole along the river. Around us float a long line of bamboo rafts. This is probably the activity every tourist does here. And rightly so, because the view of the Karst rocks is fantastic. There are some rapids along the way. We are advised to lift our shoes to keep our feet dry. We pass the small rapids without problems. After more than half an hour, we reach the endpoint. We are dropped off on the right side of the river. Then the boatman paddles to the opposite bank. The rafts are loaded onto a truck with a lift and driven back to the starting point. Our bikes are ready at the parking lot. We ride to the café at the foot of Moon Hill. From the garden, the large hole in the rocks is clearly visible. Yesterday we visited the caves on the other side of the road. Lunch is served in the café — various dishes on a rotating glass plate. It tastes fine, but the lunch isn’t very special. This is truly a tourist spot. Early in the afternoon, we bike back to the center of Yangshuo.

China - A climb of the nearly 300-meter high rock near Yangshuo

Since we couldn’t climb Moon Hill, Frank suggests an alternative: climbing a rocky peak near Yangshuo. Christina leads us through some backstreets to the start of the stairs. I never would have found it myself. The stairs consist of stone steps and uneven rocks. Slowly I climb higher. I quickly notice it’s oppressively hot and the climb is strenuous. The rock is much higher than the peak I climbed yesterday. The stairs seem endless. After half an hour, I finally reach the antenna mast at the top. The effort is rewarded with a beautiful view over the town and the Li River. Unfortunately, the mountaintop is surrounded by plastic litter. What a shame people just throw it here. Descending is fortunately much less strenuous. Early in the evening, we walk into Yangshuo to eat something simple. At a food court, we point out some meat and vegetable skewers. The total is less than €2.50 per person. Even the beer for just one euro isn’t expensive. When we order one portion of spare ribs, it suddenly costs 18 euros for three people — relatively expensive. While we eat, it starts to rain. A canopy is quickly placed over the terrace, just in time, because the downpour is intense. Tonight, we are going to the light show on the river near the Karst mountains. Too bad it’s raining now. We walk back to the hotel in the rain. The bus arrives to take us to the show. At the entrance, everyone receives a poncho.

China - The mountains are illuminated during the Yangshuo light show

I wait a bit before putting it on because it seems to be drying up. When the show starts, it’s even dry. I use the poncho to cover the wet seat. On an open stretch of river, a performance is held with light and music. Bamboo rafts float by with torchbearers and musicians. The show ends with a procession of over a hundred performers in glowing suits. The suits blink on and off. I enjoyed the spectacular show, but opinions in the group were divided. Most of the group were disappointed. I don’t quite understand why — tastes and expectations differ. We return to the hotel by bus.