China > Tiananmen Square

I doze off a few times during the night. Still, I’m glad when the cabin lights come back on—a sign that we are approaching Beijing. Breakfast consists of a sandwich with egg and cheese. Not special, but sufficient. Meanwhile, the captain announces that the landing is commencing. Despite the delay in the Netherlands, we land almost on schedule. In the arrival hall, I join the queue for customs. The request to place fingers on the scanner is given in Dutch via the computer, probably based on my passport. Next to me, I hear the Spanish version. With an entry stamp in my passport, I head to the baggage carousel. My suitcase is already waiting. I’ve already met several fellow travelers. In the arrival hall, I also meet Frank, the Chinese guide for our group for the coming month. One traveler has a different flight and will arrive in about an hour. With thirteen people in the bus, we drive to the hotel in Beijing. Fortunately, the rooms are already available. Frank takes us to a nearby restaurant where we can have lunch. He translates some dishes. Wonton soup—soup with small parcels filled with meat—sounds good to me. Since I don’t have Chinese money yet, Frank covers the lunch for me. In the afternoon, we go to Tian’anmen Square, also known as the Square of Heavenly Peace. The hotel is quite far from the center. We take bus 8. Frank scans the tickets for all of us. Tian’anmen Square is the largest square in the world. In theory, half a million people could stand here. However, since the student protests in 1989, which were violently suppressed by the Chinese government, access to the square is limited. Entry is only allowed with a prior reservation. When we get off the bus, Frank says we will enter individually, not as a group. If anyone asks, we are not a group but friends. A strict security check follows. My passport is checked three times. Photos are taken, bags are inspected, and everyone is frisked. They probably want to prevent anyone from making a political statement on China’s most famous square at all costs.

China - The entrance gate of the Forbidden City with a portrait of Mao

There is a heavy police presence on the square as well. In the middle stands the impressive mausoleum of Mao, founder of present-day communist China. The mausoleum can be visited in the morning; it is now closed. On the north side of the square, on the gate to the Forbidden City, hangs a large portrait of Mao. Around the flagpole with a huge Chinese flag, soldiers stand guard. This area is off-limits, and police officers are stationed every fifty meters or so. While we stand there, extra barriers are put up around the flag. Frank explains that this is for the flag-lowering ceremony, during which everyone must keep a greater distance. We don’t wait for this and leave the square on the side of the Forbidden City. We walk along the tall red wall of the imperial palaces. Police and security checkpoints are everywhere here as well. We continue walking to Wangfujing Street, the largest pedestrian street in Beijing and China. It’s now around six o’clock. In the food court, we can get something to eat. Frank also takes us to a phone store. Since my phone doesn’t support e-sim, I need a Chinese SIM card to be able to pay with my phone. Registering and linking the SIM card takes a long time, so there’s little time left for the shopping street. Meanwhile, other travelers have found out that the food court is closed. Frank adjusts the plans. Two floors below the phone store are several small restaurants. I point at a picture of noodles and order beer with it. At checkout, I use Alipay, the Chinese payment app, for the first time. From the shopping street, we take a public bus back to the hotel. It turns out to be quite a long ride. After three-quarters of an hour, we get off at the last stop. Although it’s only eight in the evening, I quickly go to my room to sleep. Due to the flight and time difference, I really need it.