China > By Bus to Langmusi

Up early. Just before seven o'clock, I show up for breakfast. The door is still locked, and the room is dark. A little after seven, someone arrives to open the door. We take our seats in the breakfast room. The man disappears again. It’s chilly in the room—outside, it’s just one degree above freezing. After about fifteen minutes, someone else walks in. As she turns on the lights, she looks concerned at the already full breakfast room. Extra staff are called in. Slowly, breakfast is served person by person. Our plan to leave at eight o’clock doesn’t work out. Twenty minutes later, we load the luggage onto the bus and leave Xiahe. Today, we drive through the mountains to Langmusi. Along the way, we pass large numbers of yaks. These animals are raised here for sale. Occasionally, a herd crosses the road, and we have to pause for a moment. Halfway through, we stop for a bathroom break. Further along the route, there’s a hiking path to a viewpoint. A strong wind blows through the valley. To the left and right, large herds of yaks graze. On the platform stands a statue of cranes. These birds spend the summer months on the Tibetan plateau. During the colder months, they migrate to surrounding countries, including China and Bhutan. Just after noon, we arrive in Langmusi. There’s construction going on in the town center—apparently for the sewer system. The street to our hotel is also torn up, and the bus can barely reach the hotel. After dropping our things in the room, we go for lunch in a restaurant that specializes in Sichuan dishes, the regional specialties of the province. It tastes excellent. Langmusi is home to two large Tibetan monasteries. I walk to the entrance of the Kirti Monastery. Since we’re visiting the monasteries tomorrow, I don’t buy a ticket yet. I walk past a row of stupas and reach an old pagoda that clearly needs maintenance. The wood looks weathered. From the pagoda, I walk between monks’ residences. Unintentionally and without a ticket, I enter the monastery complex.

China - Prayer wheels under a shelter in Langmusi

We arrive at the impressive temples. Behind the temple, a dirt path leads uphill. From here, we have a beautiful view over the town and the monasteries. On the other side, we can also see the Serti Monastery, the second monastery in the town. Back in the center, we reach the old mosque. From the courtyard, we can see the old minaret. The prayer hall has been newly constructed. We wander through the narrow streets and arrive at the entrance of the Serti Monastery. The golden roofs of the various temples gleam in the sunlight. We’ll also visit this monastery tomorrow. I walk back to the hotel and order a beer at a restaurant across the street. For dinner, we’ve agreed to meet at seven in front of the hotel. Whoever wants to join is welcome. At the agreed time, nearly the entire group is waiting downstairs. Nice. We walk past a few restaurants, looking for one with a pleasant atmosphere. We try a staircase leading to a restaurant on the first floor. The café/restaurant looks cozy, but the menu seems a bit unclear. We try another restaurant across the street, where we’re offered a private room.

China - The monasteries of Langmusi lie at over three kilometers altitude

It turns out to be a former hotel room now used for dining. The room is far too small. The group splits up. I go back with a smaller group to the first place. With some gesturing, we order a beer. A phone is handed to me—the restaurant boy has called a friend who speaks English. He explains that the menu has pictures and we can order by pointing at them. We had already figured that out. Each table selects a few dishes. Meanwhile, the boy shows up with a box of beer and a tray of cola—he had just gone out to buy them. Then, nothing seems to happen for a while. But when the food finally arrives, it tastes excellent again. Back in the room, it’s chilly. I turn on the small electric heater, but it doesn’t have enough power to warm the room properly. I crawl under my blanket early.