China > Cycling to Baisha and Shuhe

“First check out the breakfast buffet before deciding to have breakfast at the hotel,” Frank advised. I find the breakfast fine, especially for 20 yuan (about 2.50 euros). I am immediately given a boiled egg and a bowl of noodles prepared for me with sauce and peanuts. Although I don’t finish the whole bowl, it tastes great. At half past eight, we gather for a bike ride from Lijiang to Baisha. The bike rental is just around the corner from the hotel. The mountain bikes are already lined up. I grab a bike, check the brakes and gears. It seems like a good bike. The saddle is comfortable enough. When we set off, it turns out not all the bikes are in good shape. Some chains slip quickly, and one bike is more of a child’s size. We follow the guide through the city.

China - The Black Dragon Pool with snow-capped peaks in the background

Since we ride in a group, the cars give us enough space. On the north side of the city, we arrive at Black Dragon Pool park. We park the bikes at the entrance. In the middle of the lake stands the Deyue Lou tower, with the snowy peaks of the Yulong Xue Shan mountains in the background. The peaks are around five kilometers high. We walk around the lake. Along the way, we pass the twenty-meter-high Wufeng Lou, the Five Phoenix Tower. This tower from 1601 may be the most beautiful tower in the park. On the other side of the lake, we visit the Museum of Nakhi Culture. The guide explains the history, clothing, and ancient excavations. Back at the bikes, we continue north. We ride in the right lane of a wide highway, passing roundabouts and going under overpasses. Luckily, after a few kilometers, we turn off and ride through smaller roads to Baisha. Like Lijiang, the old center of Baisha consists of wooden houses. Until Kublai Khan’s invasion, Baisha was the capital of the Nakhi kingdom.

China - The historic streets of Shuhe

I wander the streets and occasionally order some food from the stalls. The offerings seem identical to Lijiang’s. I don’t want to eat too much because we will also have lunch in the village. In one place, I order a cappuccino. Lunch is served on the first floor of a restaurant. Special local dishes are put on the table. By taking a little of everything, I gather a tasty lunch. After lunch, we get a tour showing how the local people process textiles. They mainly want to give more people the opportunity to earn an income. I skip the explanation and the adjoining shop. We get back on the bikes and leave Baisha. On the way back to Lijiang, we also visit the village of Shuhe. Like Baisha, Shuhe is a Nakhi village. On the way, one of the travelers gets a flat tire—the tire is torn. She rides on Frank’s bike. In Shuhe, we walk through the old town. Again, many wooden houses with shops. In the afternoon, we drive back to Lijiang. We covered about thirty kilometers today. I notice I’m quite tired from the ride. In the evening, I take it easy. With a small group, I go to eat at the Lijiang street market. On the south side of the old town, there is a market with countless food stalls.

China - A beer at the food market in Lijiang

I try a meat bun. The buns are stuck against the wall of the stall. Nearby, mushrooms are being fried. We order five small bowls. The boy gestures that it might take some time. Only on the second batch he fries are we served, although it seems he prefers to serve the Chinese customers first. The bowl is filled with different kinds of fried mushrooms. After more than half a bowl, I’ve had enough. Probably most people don’t order one bowl per person. As we continue wandering among the stalls, we find a beer stall. The beer is cooled in a bucket of ice. We order five Dali beers, the local brand from the region, and sit down on low stools. Everywhere at the market, food is being prepared and cooked. The smell of frying and barbecue will probably linger on my clothes for a while. Around half past eight, I’m back at the hotel. I take a shower and crawl into bed.