China > The Forbidden City

I wake up around six o’clock. A few minutes later, the alarm goes off. I take a shower. Then I get dressed in the small room. With a bit of maneuvering, I just manage. The hotel does not offer breakfast service. We follow Frank to the neighboring building. On the ground floor, lots of fruit and vegetables are being sold. As I walk by, everything smells fresh and healthy. We take the escalator to the second floor. Here are several small restaurants—a kind of food court. Most kitchens are still closed at this time. At the small restaurant that is open, I order a kind of sweet pancake and a brown egg. Strangely, there is nothing to drink, not even tea. I pay with my Alipay app. I’m getting better at using it. The food tastes so-so. Across the street, there is a Starbucks café. Here I order a cappuccino. At eight o’clock, we gather again in front of the hotel. We take bus 60 to the Forbidden City. Frank suggests getting off at the side entrance of the Forbidden City. Most tourists come from Tian’anmen Square, which often means long lines on that side. I booked my ticket for the Forbidden City online last week. That was a good idea because all tickets for today are sold out. I join the queue to enter. After my bag is checked, my passport is scanned for entry. Apparently, my ticket is linked to my passport. They also scan to verify that the photo in my passport matches. Everything checks out, and I enter the Forbidden City grounds. Clearly, I am not alone. Large groups, mainly Chinese tourists, also enter the complex. The Forbidden City was built between 1406 and 1420, although most of the current buildings date from the 17th and 18th centuries. When I pass the Meridian Gate, I look out toward the Gate of Supreme Harmony.

China - The palaces form the heart of the Outer Court, where the emperor received visitors

On the enormous inner courtyard are five marble bridges. The middle bridge could only be used by the emperor. When I reach the second courtyard, I see the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the largest building in the Forbidden City. This was the location where the emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties held their coronations and wedding ceremonies. Together with the Hall of Central Harmony and the Hall of Preserving Harmony, these three halls form the heart of the Outer Court of the Forbidden City. I wander through the complex. The enormous lion statues, large copper cauldrons, and decorations on the roof edges—all are beautiful. On the east side are two exhibitions. Each requires an additional entrance ticket of ten yuan (about 1.25 euros). The first exhibition displays a collection of clocks from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The Treasury Gallery shows other luxury possessions.

China - The passage to the Imperial Palaces in the Forbidden City

Around the Treasury Gallery, you can also enter various chambers. So far, we had only viewed the palaces from the outside, so the decorations and elaborate ceilings are clearly visible here. As we wander from room to room, it turns out we have only seen part of the Treasury Gallery. Especially the gold and silver treasures, we unknowingly missed. We arrive in the Imperial Garden, the emperor’s garden. We have seen enough imperial splendor and leave the Forbidden City. By bus, we go to a Hutong. A Hutong is an old neighborhood where many Chinese workers lived. The conditions were often primitive. Due to the city’s growth, many old neighborhoods have been demolished and replaced by expensive high-rise apartments. Near the Drum Tower and Bell Tower, a small part of the traditional Hutong remains. Around these towers was once the city center. Narrow streets now house shops and restaurants, many catering to tourists. At the Drum Tower, I buy a ticket to visit the tower. Via a steep staircase with relatively high steps, I reach the tower’s platform. Large drums stand here.

China - A traditional residential area in old Beijing

In the past, the sounds of the drums signaled when to start work and when it was time for a break. From the tower, I have a view over the city. Unfortunately, the side with a view of the Bell Tower is closed. In the Hutong, we order some food in a restaurant. I point to something a man is eating. It looks tasty. At another stall, we buy a beer. The food tastes good, but I have no idea what I am eating. When we ask afterward, it turns out to be beef, pork, and tofu. When we gather to return to the hotel, worried messages come through. A severe storm is forecast for tomorrow, and the Great Wall of China is closed. There is no choice but to stay longer in the Beijing hotel. Tourist attractions in the city will also be closed tomorrow. Frank says he will check the weather in the morning and inquire whether places like the Summer Palace or the Temple of Heaven can be visited. He advises stocking up on extra food in case of really bad weather. Perhaps restaurants will also be closed tomorrow. When we walk to the theater late in the afternoon for an acrobatics show, things still seem calm. Chairs are brought inside, and decorations are removed. Everyone is taking precautions. The theater is mainly filled with Chinese tourists. Acrobats show impressive acts on stage—from clever balancing to motorcycles in a round cage. When we leave the theater, it’s raining. We quickly walk to a nearby restaurant for a hotpot meal. Hotpot is originally a Mongolian dish. We cook meat and vegetables in boiling water. The meat is held in the water with chopsticks. It’s somewhat like fondue. On the way back to the hotel, I buy instant noodles, extra water, and a beer. While drinking the beer with some fellow travelers outside the hotel, I notice the wind is picking up. The streets are extremely quiet. It feels like literally the calm before the storm. What will tomorrow bring?