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Travelogue From Beijing to Hong Kong

April 9 May 10 2025 (32 days)


China > Climbing in the Shibaoshan Mountains

Dag 21 - Tuesday, April 29, 2025

Breakfast at the hotel is the usual toast and egg. The instant coffee tastes somewhat worse. Fortunately, there is also fruit available. At nine o’clock, we gather in front of the hotel. Two golf carts are ready to take us to the entrance of the Shibaoshan Mountains. We don’t start at the main entrance but at a closer one. This is probably why there is no ticket office to pay for park entry. Without a ticket, I walk into the park. Shibaoshan, or Stone Treasury Mountain park, is a large natural area formed around three mountains. The highest peak is just over three kilometers high. In the area are some Buddhist temples and caves with Buddhist images. Due to its remote location, the temples and caves were spared during the Cultural Revolution. Immediately inside the park, the path leads into the valley. I follow the turnoff to the first cave. Under a small roof, I see a Buddha carved out of rock, about one and a half meters high. We pass several more caves, some of which are closed off. We look inside through a fence. The path is now going steeply uphill. A stone staircase leads into the mountains. After about 45 minutes, we arrive at a small temple seemingly clinging to the rocks. From the temple, there is a beautiful view over the valley and Shaxi. It clearly shows how much height we’ve gained. From this point, we follow signs to the Shizhong Temple (Stone Bell Temple), although we have no idea how far it is. Fortunately, we meet some faster travelers who are already on their way back.

China - A walk in the Shibaoshan mountains

We find out the temple is nearby. Not long after, I see the temple lying in the valley below me. In the courtyard stands a large stone rock shaped like a bell. I don’t have to think long about how the temple got its name. As we descend to the temple, we pass some rock paintings. The paintings still look intact and colorful. From the Stone Bell Temple, we can visit the caves. For the Chinese people ahead of me, their phones are scanned. When we go to the caves, it is enough to register that we come from the Netherlands. Probably the ticket is checked here, but since passports must be scanned for foreigners, we can walk right through. That suits me fine, as I have no ticket. In the caves are centuries-old Buddhist images with Bai influences. These lively and very delicate images are among the oldest in China. The Yoni shrine shows a female genitalia, where normally water flows through. This non-Buddhist image is attributed to Bai traditions. Women come here to pray. It is now past 12:30. Outside the temple, we eat the packed lunches we brought: some small bread rolls, yogurt, and a banana. Then we follow the route back. Going downhill is much easier than going up.

China - The Buddha statues in the caves are among the oldest in China

The weather is ideal. The sun timidly shines through the clouds, and it is about twenty degrees Celsius. We have to cover roughly 400 meters in height. Around two o’clock, we arrive back at the gate of Shibaoshan Mountain park. Since everyone walks through the park independently, there is no organized transport back. We walk back to the hotel in Shaxi along the road in just over half an hour. It was a beautiful mountain hike and a good workout. At the hotel, Frank helps with the Chinese SIM cards. The SIM card I bought in Beijing is only valid until the end of the month. After that, I have to buy a new card. Frank thinks he’s found a way to add extra data to the card. After updating a few SIM cards, he discovers this is not for internet data but for video. That’s no use to us. He advises renewing the data on Thursday. This can be done hourly, daily, or monthly. Probably a monthly extension is most practical, although we’re only six days in China. In Hong Kong, a new bundle will have to be added anyway. I go to my room and take a shower. In the evening, I return to Peter’s Kitchen. I didn’t like the beer yesterday, so I order a glass of red wine. Meanwhile, travel companions start arriving. I order a salami pizza. The wine tastes good, so I order another glass. When I have to pay, I realize this is the first time I’ve paid more than 200 yuan (about 24 euros) for a meal. On the other hand, the food was good and the restaurant was cozy. On my way back to the hotel, I wonder if the bill is correct. I probably paid for someone else’s extra drink. Oh well, it doesn’t matter.

Red pandaA red panda shows itself among the trees
Forbidden City entranceThe entrance gate of the Forbidden City with a portrait of Mao
Old theater stageThe old pavilion from the 17th century in Shaxi
Waibao MountainsThe Taoist temples in the Waibao Mountains

Travelogue From Beijing to Hong Kong

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