India > The Golden Sikh Temple

India - Riding on the back of a cycle rickshaw through Amritsar

Today I’m traveling to Amritsar, a journey expected to take about six hours. At exactly eight o’clock, I get back into the minibus. The driver descends the mountain, back toward Dharamsala, then turns west. Around this time, many schoolchildren are walking along the roadside. Some have to walk kilometers to get to school. Soon the landscape flattens. The roads become less winding, and the driver can go faster. He still uses the horn constantly. Hardly anyone overtakes our minibus, but we pass nearly all other traffic.

India - The Sri Durgiana Temple is the Hindu counterpart of the Sikh Golden Temple

At the turnoff to Amritsar, the road is closed. The driver ignores the signs and drives briefly against traffic, disregarding the whistle of the officer behind us. A little further on, he slots the bus back between the line of waiting cars. You could safely say he drives assertively, but not recklessly. We enter Amritsar safely and without incident. In the afternoon, I take a rickshaw to the Sir Durgiana Temple. The driver maneuvers through the city. Riding openly on the bicycle attracts a lot of attention. Near the station, I have to dismount as the road rises too steeply. At the top, I can get back on and speed down again. The Sir Durgiana Temple is the Hindu counterpart to the Sikh Golden Temple. As I pass through the entrance gate, I don’t yet see the temple. Several people immediately direct me down a narrow street, filled with pilgrimage shops. At the end of the street, I finally see the temple. A whistle sounds—it’s for me. As a precaution, the guard points out that I must remove my shoes. He probably thinks I would otherwise overlook the large sign. When I point this out, he laughs. I walk barefoot through a shallow pool of holy water. The temple sits in the middle of this sacred water. Crossing a small bridge, I reach the entrance. The temple is also called the Silver Temple because of its large silver doors. Inside, people are praying to the Hindu gods. The temple is beautiful; I’ve never been in a Hindu temple like this before. Outside the gate again, I wander into the old city. Through narrow streets, I make my way toward the famous Golden Temple. I have to ask for directions several times, but fortunately, everyone knows where this important temple is located.

India - The Golden Temple of the Sikhs lies in the middle of the holy water in Amritsar

At the temple, I remove my shoes and deposit them at the cloakroom. I also need to cover my head. I am given an orange cloth to wrap around it, feeling a bit like a pirate as I enter the temple complex. I immediately see the Golden Temple in the center of the holy water. I had expected a large, imposing building, but the temple is more intimate. I first walk around the holy water. Hundreds of Sikhs are doing the same circuit as a kind of pilgrimage. A few fully immerse themselves, holding tightly to the chain—probably because they cannot swim. The atmosphere is relaxed. I am greeted warmly, and several people ask to take pictures with me. On the opposite side of the complex is the large kitchen, where meals are cooked daily for the pilgrims. I pay a donation for this food service. Immediately, I am handed a plate and cutlery and directed upstairs. I stand awkwardly in a line of waiting people. Everyone nods politely around me. I just let it happen. Groups of several hundred are admitted at a time into a large hall. Inside, long cloths are laid on the floor. I follow the pilgrims and sit on the cloth. Large buckets of dal, bread, and rice porridge are distributed. I gesture that I want a little of everything. Everyone watches how I take my meal. A boy across from me tries to discreetly take a photo. I gesture that it’s fine if he wants to. After the meal, I return my plate to the washing area. As I walk further around the holy pool, it starts to drizzle. I quickly head to the entrance of the Golden Temple. The access bridge is covered.

India - Around the Golden Temple many devotees want to take a photo with me

Groups of people are admitted at a time. I walk past the shrine. Inside, men are praying and singing. The atmosphere is special. They signal for me to keep moving. Outside, however, a torrential downpour has just started. I run to the rear of the temple, where I stay dry. Using the stairs, I reach the first floor of the Golden Temple, where the holy book is being read. The way back down is more difficult. Because of the heavy rain, everyone remains under the roof, and the line of waiting people comes to a complete stop. Large drops fall into the holy water. I squeeze my way outside. Puddles everywhere are sometimes up to ten centimeters deep. Wearing my emergency poncho, I walk back to the starting point. The streets in the old city are flooded as well. I decide to take a tuk-tuk back to the hotel and have a meal there.