India > Across the Himalayan mountain passes

The alarm goes off early. Today’s journey is through the mountains to Sarchu. The drive takes between ten and fourteen hours, depending on the type of transport.

India - Beautiful rock formations around Sarchu

When I stand in front of the hotel at half past five, I am relieved to see four cars arrive. Not jeeps, but a reasonable alternative. The promised transportation has been arranged after all. The luggage is tied to the roof. I get into the front car. In a line, we leave the still almost deserted Leh. I only see the water carriers with their barrels already hard at work. All day they fill large barrels at the stream and transport them to the town center—a tough job. We follow the same route as on one of the first days to the monasteries. I see the Dalai Lama’s summer palace, the Thiksey monastery, and the turnoff to Hemis monastery. The advantage of the cars over the minibuses quickly becomes apparent: much faster, more maneuverable, and above all, more comfortable as we ascend to the first pass. The Taglang La Pass, at 5,328 meters, is the second highest motorable pass. The highest is the Khardung La Pass. At the top, I get out to take a few photos—a special moment. The descent is gradual, without too many hairpin turns. Along the way, roadwork is in full swing. I see hundreds of workers laboring under primitive conditions—a thankless task. After a harsh winter, the frost damages the road again, and there are often detours where we must drive alongside the road through sand. Sonnu searches for the best track with the car. Sometimes I feel the car slide and skid through the sand.

India - The tent camp in Sarchu for travelers over the Himalayan mountains

The four drivers turn it into a sport, trying to pass through this stretch of desert as quickly as possible, each in their own lane. Large clouds of dust hang behind the cars. Sonnu clearly doesn’t like that two cars have returned to the main route ahead of us. At a small roadside restaurant, I order noodle soup—there’s not much else available. Afterwards, I continue toward the Lachung La Pass, the second pass at 5,065 meters. From the top, twenty-one hairpin bends lead down to Sarchu. Around four o’clock, I arrive in Sarchu. The settlement of Sarchu consists only of a few tent camps for travelers through the mountains. I spend the night at Goldrop Adventure Camp, a tent camp with about twenty furnished tents. My tent is equipped with proper beds and a toilet behind the tent. Due to the high altitude of the camp at 4,200 meters, it cools quickly in the afternoon. During dinner, hot water bottles are distributed, and I quickly crawl into bed.