India > Mountain biking from the Khardung La pass

A free day in Leh. I decided to go mountain biking today. A jeep takes me to the highest motorable pass in the world: the Khardung La Pass, which is at an altitude of 5,602 meters. From there, the plan is to ride my bike back down to Leh, over 2,000 meters lower. Dadul managed to get a permit for the pass for me just yesterday—a last-minute arrangement. At the bike rental, I choose a good bike, checking the brakes carefully.

India - At 5602 meters Khardung La Pass is the highest motorable mountain pass in the world

I also select a suitable helmet. Along with six other participants, I get into the vehicle. The bikes are tied to the roof. The group consists of two Israelis, three Brits, and two Dutch. Sonnu, the driver, tries to get the car onto the road. His engine stalls four times while trying to ride over a small ledge. This promises some challenges for the pass. On the fifth attempt, under our loud applause, he succeeds. We start ascending the mountain pass. The road is narrow, and we often have to stop to let oncoming vehicles pass. Sometimes it’s a tight fit. Behind me, I watch Leh getting smaller and smaller. Halfway up, a military convoy comes toward us. Sonnu is signaled to pull over. A convoy of at least fifty trucks descends the pass. Fifteen kilometers from the top, there is a checkpoint. Sonnu shows our permits. Here, the asphalt ends, and a rocky, stony road continues. Occasionally, a mountain stream flows over the road, which will be a real challenge later on the bike. Bulldozers are working to improve the road; this section will probably be paved within a few years. Sonnu drives over the bumpy road almost at a walking pace. Just over an hour later—actually more than two hours—I reach the top of the Khardung La Pass. I am at 5,602 meters, higher than I’ve ever been before.

India - The descent from Khardung La Pass to Leh

I take a few photos at the top. Numerous colorful prayer flags flutter in the wind—a beautiful sight. After a cup of tea at one of the highest cafés in the world, it’s time for the descent. I put on my gloves, helmet, and take my mountain bike. Immediately, I notice the road is full of bumps and holes. I ride cautiously, fearing that my front wheel might catch a hole and throw me over. I have to brake a lot to avoid gaining too much speed, which proves more challenging than expected. The breathtaking view makes up for it, though. I stop by some snow patches for a photo and let a few trucks pass—they roar down the pass at high speed, leaving little room for cyclists. At the roadworks, I pass the waiting cars. Shortly after, disaster strikes. My pedal hits a stone, and I am launched off the bike, right in view of the waiting cars. I tumble onto the rocks. Fortunately, the damage is limited to a few scrapes on my leg and arm. My bike chain also comes off. I clean my scrapes with drinking water, flip the bike over, and repair the chain. Slightly shaken, I continue the descent, taking it a bit slower. Soon, the trucks pass me again. I pause briefly as I see a large military convoy approaching at the mountaintop. The challenge is to stay ahead of it. When I reach the checkpoint after fifteen kilometers, I have just managed it—the convoy stops at the checkpoint. From here, the asphalt begins, and the descent immediately becomes much smoother and faster. On some stretches, I hardly need to brake. I carefully avoid the holes and sand, braking more on turns for safety. I prefer not to lean too sharply in the curves. As I descend further, the road quality improves and becomes more straightforward.

India - Descending by mountain bike to Leh a drop of over 2000 meters

I pick up full speed, estimating my speed between fifty and sixty kilometers per hour. I have to brake sharply at hairpin bends. Sometimes my rear wheel even skids. As I descend, I see Leh approaching again. Through the streets of Leh, I finally return to the bike rental. The ride took just over two hours. What an amazing experience! In the evening, during the briefing for the mountain travel days, there is still uncertainty about the type of transport for tomorrow. The itinerary clearly highlights a three-day jeep safari, but the tour operator, Sawadee, wants to do it with two minibuses. This would mean much longer travel on winding roads, less power, and far less comfort. I’ve already voiced my complaints—surely it shouldn’t be so difficult for Sawadee to hire jeeps. There are plenty of providers in Leh. During the briefing, there is also unpleasant news: Wilma has so much trouble with her back injury during the trek that she is returning to the Netherlands. At dinner, I say goodbye to her with a heavy heart.