India > Along the monasteries in the Indus valley

India - Monks praying in the Hemis Monastery

I slept moderately last night. I blame it on the altitude. Fortunately, the headache is gone, and I no longer have any altitude-related symptoms. Overall, the whole travel group has coped reasonably well. We drive into the Indus Valley by jeep, following the Indus River to Hemis Monastery. To reach the monastery, we cross the Indus and drive into the mountains. The monastery is tucked away in a mountain recess. Only after rounding the last bend do I see it perched against the mountainside. Stunning! Hemis Monastery is built from white and red stones, resembling a miniature version of the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Taking it slowly because of the altitude, I climb the stairs to the entrance. When I reach the courtyard, I hear chanting from the temple on the right. I take off my shoes and go inside.

India - The Thiksey Monastery lies beautifully against the mountain slope

In the atmospheric Tibetan temple, about twenty monks are praying. They sit in two rows facing each other. I take a moment to enjoy the chanting while observing the Buddha images in the temple. On the side, a few elderly women are rolling candle wicks. They show me their skill. When I take a photo and show it to them, they ask if I can send it to them. I am given an address in Leh. I continue the route to Stakna Gompa. For this, the jeeps must cross the Indus again. The bridge is so narrow that the vehicles barely fit across. Stakna Gompa sits atop a rocky outcrop. I climb the long, flat staircase to the entrance. The complex is much smaller than Hemis. In the small courtyard, I hear chanting again. Prayers are being said here as well. I climb the stairs to the temple and go inside. Twelve monks are praying in the small room—a unique atmosphere.

India - Prayers are stored in the old library of the Thiksey Monastery

Back downstairs, a monk comes out of the kitchen and asks if I would like a cup of tea. I hesitate for a moment but decide to accept. A little later, I am sitting with tea, milk, and sugar. In Nyerma, I visit the Gaden Chhatnyanling nunnery. I am allowed to see some of the nuns’ rooms and the guesthouse. By offering accommodations at this quiet location, the nuns can earn some money. On the way back to Leh, I stop at Thiksey Monastery, a large complex built into the mountainside. Inside, there is a fourteen-meter-tall statue of the future Buddha, spanning several floors. I climb a narrow staircase to the roof to reach one of the most remarkable spaces: the old library. Ancient scriptures are stored here under the watchful eye of Buddha. I walk to the other side of the complex. The Assembly Hall is closed, probably because it’s afternoon tea for the monks. I wander across the roof of the complex and notice a small path leading down. I follow the stairs along the back of Thiksey Monastery.

India - Young nuns look with interest at the digital photos

Around the corner, I see seven stupas. I also notice a path leading to the entrance. Fortunately, I don’t have to climb all the way back up the stairs. In the afternoon, I visit a girls’ monastery. Young children are often sent by their parents, hoping for a better life. In the small temple, I am offered tea. The children, the youngest only five years old, sit across from me. Their large eyes follow every movement I make. On one hand, it’s clear that the children are being cared for, but on the other, becoming a nun is not entirely their free choice. It is past six o’clock when I drive back to Leh—or so I think. The driver still has Spituk Monastery on the agenda, which would only be visited if time allowed. Before I realize it, we are at the monastery. I take a photo from the outside and then finally drive back to Leh. I take a seat on one of Leh’s terraces.