India > Alchi, the oldest monastery of Ladakh

India - The cook at work in the Rizong Monastery kitchen

In the morning, I decide to go along to the Rizong Monastery. I had already visited it on day three of the long trek. I don’t feel like staying at the campsite. This time, I don’t have to walk to the monastery. We drive the six-kilometer road to the monastery in the minibus. Along the way, we pick up an elderly nun who is walking back to the monastery. She is very grateful for the ride. The Rizong Monastery is beautifully built against the mountainside. It is the main monastery of the region. I walk up the steps, visit the temple and the main hall, and am offered a cup of tea in the kitchen. I once again enjoy the guided tour through the monastery. A little lower down the road lies the Thardot Choeling nunnery, a much smaller complex housing twenty-five nuns. The youngest is only nine years old, the oldest just over seventy. Even though it’s vacation, some of the girls show me their rooms. I am surprised at how small they are. The girls also offer me a cup of tea, which I drink in the nunnery’s temple. Meanwhile, they tell me about the monastery, their daily schedule, and their future plans. I walk back to the campsite via the paved road—a lovely stroll between the mountainsides.

India - The Alchi Monastery is the oldest monastery in Ladakh

At the campsite, most of the tents have already been taken down. After the crew’s final lunch, all the luggage is loaded, and we drive to Alchi. In Alchi stands the oldest monastery in Ladakh. The Alchi Monastery is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. I arrive at the monastery via a street full of souvenir shops. First, I walk the kora around the temple clockwise. From the kora, I have a view of the wild-flowing Indus River. Within the complex, I visit the four different ancient temples. I enter the temples through the very low entrance gates. The frescoes on the walls are especially impressive and very old. In two of the temples, there is no light to protect the artwork. I use my flashlight to examine the old paintings. At the end of the afternoon, I drive back to Leh. By six o’clock, I am back at the familiar hotel. I quickly take a shower, washing off the dust of the past few days, and also wash my trekking clothes. I hang the clothes wherever I can to dry. In the evening, I go out to eat in Leh. Walking through the streets of Leh feels a little like coming home. Lovely!