Uganda > Rafting: 'Heavy 5' or 'Light 5'

I’m up early for breakfast. Frank advised me to eat beforehand, as I’m going rafting on the Nile today. Breakfast is included with the rafting, but apparently it isn’t much to speak of. My breakfast order at my own resort takes a long time to arrive, even though I had chosen something easy to prepare from the menu. Meanwhile, Frank calls to say I’ll be arriving late. Over half an hour later than planned, I drive toward Jinja. At the Adventures Experience meeting center, it’s quite busy, with many tourists wandering around the building.

Uganda - From the safari tent in Jinja there is a beautiful view over the Nile

I check in at the counter and sign the liability waiver. I’m never entirely sure if I’m doing the right thing, but it’s the only way to go rafting. There are two levels: grade 3 and grade 5. Since five is the highest and wildest level, I prefer the lighter option. At registration, I discover that there are hardly any category three rafts available. If I want level three, I would be grouped with children—which I don’t want. The problem is that there are four of us: two want the heavy variant, and two—including me—the light. I’m advised to go for the five anyway. The route is the same as level three, but with level three you have to portage around the heavier rapids. They also recommend splitting up the group: if it gets too intense, the guide can slow down. This is easy to manage since nearly a hundred rafters are already at the meeting point. Today is exceptionally busy: thirteen rafts in total, supported by two safety boats and around fifteen kayakers. With my helmet in hand and life vest on, I climb into one of the trucks. The starting point is still quite a way off. It’s chilly in the open truck. For the villages we pass, it must be quite a sight: a truck full of tourists decked out in life vests and helmets. But the locals hardly bat an eye; trucks pass this way every day around this time. After an hour, we arrive at the starting point. The rafts are unloaded and launched down a long slide into the water. I follow via the nearby staircase. It’s easy to find fellow rafters for the “light five.” Soon, my group consists of two Spaniards, two Germans, and two Dutch. Duna is my Ugandan guide. On a calm stretch of the Nile, we practice commands. When Duna decides we’re all ready, we approach the first rapid, which is too intense to navigate directly. At the top, I step out and the raft is lowered down by a rope. Halfway down, I climb back on to experience the second part. The raft plunges into the waves and water splashes over me. At the second rapid, the raft hits the waves at an angle. Armando from Spain loses his balance and falls overboard—so does Duna. Without the guide, the raft goes through the rapid. Earlier, I had jokingly asked Duna what to do if he fell overboard. “Pray!” he laughed. Slightly embarrassed, he climbs back on a little later, and we pull Armando back on as well. No danger occurred. Immediately after Duna fell, one of the nearby kayakers escorted the raft. The organization is well set up, with safety a top priority. Some rafters find the rapids too intense; a few American girls switch to the safety boats—rafts with a wooden frame and oars that reportedly cannot easily capsize. At the fourth rapid, we portage again. Duna warns that a huge wave is coming, with a high chance of flipping. Anyone not wanting to risk it can ride along on the safety boat. We’re split: three want to go, three don’t. Unfortunately, the safety boat runs into trouble, pulled toward the rapid by the current. Everyone has to go. Soon, our raft plunges into a two-meter wave. I’m at the front, water splashes over me, and water runs along the side into the boat. I realize immediately we’re flipping. I fall into the water, keeping my mouth tightly shut to avoid swallowing Nile water, and drift under the wave. It feels like forever. When I resurface, a raft is right behind me. I push off from the bow and find myself in a calmer part of the river. I see many helmets floating—almost all the rafts have flipped. A kayaker guides me back to my own raft. Not everyone enjoyed the flip; anxious looks are exchanged. We continue more slowly. Kayakers bring cookies and pineapple for lunch. At the last rapid of the day, we again have a choice: normal or light. The German guests have already switched to the safety boat; one is nauseous and has vomited several times. Armando wants heavy, the rest do not. We exchange members with another raft. With a mixed crew, I navigate around the highest waves and arrive safely, dry, at the endpoint. I’m quite tired but really enjoyed the light five. In total, I’ve covered twenty-seven kilometers on the Nile. Over a beer and barbecue, I discuss my rafting experiences. It’s already getting dark as I ride back in a van to Nile Porch Lodge. When I return, I learn that one of the travelers fell hard from her horse during the earlier ride and is resting in bed with painkillers.