Uganda > Queen Elizabeth National Park

Uganda - One of the crater lakes in Western Uganda

Sleeping in! I don’t have breakfast until eight o’clock. I pack my luggage and place my travel bag outside the door, where it is collected by the lodge staff. After breakfast, I head toward Queen Elizabeth National Park. Just as we’re about to leave, there’s some confusion about the room bills. Too much has been charged to the central dinner account, including drinks from the previous evening. What can be quickly verified is settled, and in consultation with the group, Frank pays the rest from the common fund. I leave Kibale Forest via a narrow road past the crater lakes, which were formed by volcanic activity. I continue to the town of Fort Portal and then toward Kasese. In Kasese, I stop at an ATM, which is guarded by an armed security officer—a reassuring sight. I manage to withdraw cash; if it hadn’t worked, I could have borrowed money from fellow travelers, but I prefer to have my own cash. Shortly after Kasese, I cross the equator. This is the first time I’ve truly stood on the equator. I take a photo at the marker and also a group photo. As the multiple-camera shots are taken, I notice one fellow traveler still sitting in the bus.

Uganda - Matoke is the national vegetable a cross between banana and potato

She has an ankle problem and stayed behind. Everyone laughs heartily, including her. Around 1:30 PM, I arrive at the Bush Lodge in Queen Elizabeth National Park. Lunch is already prepared in a luxuriously equipped safari tent. After lunch, I set up my own tent for a two-night stay. In the afternoon, I go on a game drive in the park. I cross the bridge and stop briefly in the village of Katungaru. It’s still too warm to spot wildlife, as the animals remain hidden. Frank leads me past the simple fish market, and I see children playing in the Kazinga Channel, which connects Lake Edward to the more distant Lake George. Half an hour later, I get back in the bus to “spot wildlife.

Uganda - Our guide and drivers at the equator

” Jampa turns right into the Kasenyi area, not part of the official routes, but he assures me the chances of seeing big cats are higher here. He drives carefully while keeping an eye out for animals. I see kobs, warthogs, oribis, and various waterbucks—not in large numbers. A herd of elephants crosses the path, carefully shielding a young elephant from my view. Eventually, we reach the edge of Lake George near a small saltwater pond. Jampa takes another route back, turning onto a narrow track. He’s determined to get me a lion or leopard sighting. It’s already dusk—the predators begin hunting at this time, but they are harder to spot. The path narrows further. Eventually, I arrive at the village of Hamukunga without seeing any lions or leopards. I’m amazed that people can live here on the edge of Queen Elizabeth Park with wild animals roaming so freely. Jampa seems unsure of the route too. As we drive through the village, children run after us. Unfortunately, the road ends abruptly. About fifty children surround the bus, looking at me questioningly. Jampa goes to ask directions, instructing me to stay inside.

Uganda - Uganda kobs during sunset

The children take the opportunity to ask for money, candy, and pens. Frank had previously requested that we give nothing to children, since if they know they can get items from tourists, they may skip school. These children clearly see it differently. The atmosphere grows slightly tense. Fortunately, Jampa returns, and we drive out of the village via the same road we came in on. Outside the village, we head straight for the main road. It’s completely dark now. From the main asphalt road, it’s thirteen kilometers to the Bush Lodge. The speed bumps are difficult to see at night, and we bounce over them—Jampa misses one, and the rear lights fail at that spot. Driving with only the license plate lights is risky, but the front lights still work. Luckily, Jampa spots a buffalo on the road just in time. He brakes hard, stopping just before the animal. Safely, I arrive back at the campsite around eight o’clock. I can immediately join the extensive four-course dinner. At night, I enjoy the sounds around the tent, having left the tent mesh open to see any visitors.