Uganda > Rare Shoebill

Uganda - Canoeing through the wetlands of Lake Victoria

After barely four hours of sleep, my alarm goes off again. Getting up is not easy. At breakfast, we discover that one camera did not make it back from the nightclub. Cameras were not allowed inside yesterday. Edwin had taken the camera into safekeeping and handed it in at the reception. On leaving, he forgot to pick it up. He apologizes and promises that the camera will be sent to the Netherlands. There is little confidence that this will actually happen. We drive to the nightclub to see if anything can be arranged. The door is closed, but through a painter and a security guard, someone eventually arrives with a key. With the camera retrieved, we drive out of Masaka toward Entebbe.

Uganda - A rare shoebill stork in the Victoria Lake wetlands Uganda

At Mabamba, we turn right. Children enthusiastically shout “Mzungu” at me, which means “white person.” I wave back cheerfully. Along a bumpy road, I arrive at the wetlands of Lake Victoria. At the Mabamba wetlands, I board a large canoe. The boats can maneuver easily among the water plants. This wetland is the habitat of the rare shoebill—a large bird with a prehistoric appearance that can grow up to one and a half meters tall. Only nine of these birds remain in this area. They lay eggs only once every five years, making reproduction extremely limited. Hamilton, my guide on the boat, spots one of the shoebills.

Uganda - The village of Kasanje near Entebbe

Slowly, he paddles the canoe closer. From about fifty meters away, I see the shoebill searching for fish. It pays little attention to me. The shoebill is not a traditionally beautiful bird; it even looks a bit sad. Still, it is remarkable to be able to observe such a rare bird so closely. At the end of the afternoon, I arrive in Entebbe at the same beach café by Lake Victoria as on the first day. On the beach, I have a farewell dinner with my travel companions. Threatening clouds hang over the lake, but it remains dry just long enough. After the meal, we thank Frank, Jampa, and Edwin and give them a tip. Then it’s time to change clothes and head to the airport. At half past seven in the evening, I arrive at Entebbe Airport. I say goodbye to the crew and check in. After three baggage checks, I board the plane. Around half past eleven at night, the plane takes off toward Amsterdam.