Uganda > Visiting the chimpanzees

Today I visit Kibale Forest National Park to see the chimpanzees. We split into two groups. Each group enters the forest with a ranger. My guide is named Chimp—a very fitting name here. At the rear of the group, a ranger carries a weapon, purely for safety, Chimp assures me. So far, they have never had to fire it, and if they ever do, it is only a warning shot. I follow Chimp through the forest. Occasionally, he stops to listen for sounds of the apes and also looks for signs of their presence.

Uganda - A chimpanzee watches from the tree

So far, I hear very little. We cut through the undergrowth. Will I even find the chimpanzees? There’s always a chance I might return empty-handed. After about an hour, I pass the overnight spot from last night. A few nests hang in the trees, and there are food remnants and droppings on the ground. I must be close. In the distance, I hear the chimpanzees roaring. I head toward the sound. Soon I hear rustling above me in the trees—a chimpanzee! I quickly grab my camera. It’s nearly impossible to capture the animal among the branches against the bright sky. I see several chimps in the treetops, some jumping from top to top. They seem uninterested in me—but the red ants on the ground are another story. As soon as I pause to look up, they discover my feet. Several sharp bites through my socks remind me of their presence. I pull off a few ants, each almost two centimeters long, from my clothes and move to a safer spot. Here I can watch the movement in the treetops. One chimpanzee climbs down right in front of me and calmly sits about five meters away to eat. He almost seems to pose, perfectly comfortable with my presence.

Uganda - A young chimpanzee lies on its mothers back

Behind him, a mother climbs down with her young on her back. Chimp tells me it’s rare for a mother with a baby to come down during a visit. The little one is adorable. The first chimp has now laid down on his back with legs spread among the leaves. He yawns occasionally and glances at me. The other chimps above remain active too. I just manage to avoid a dropping from one above—it almost feels deliberate. One chimp roars, immediately followed by a chorus of roars from the rest in the treetops. Magnificent. After about two hours, I must return. Officially, visitors are allowed only one hour with the troop, but Chimp turned a blind eye. Back at the lodge, I take off my shoes and remove about fifteen large ants from my socks. Some I had crushed through my shoes, others are merely stunned. Their jaws are still stuck in my socks and need to be pulled off.

Uganda - A monkey waits in the tree for what comes next

Fellow travelers were bitten too, though none seriously. In the afternoon, I explore Chimp Nest Resort. Each cottage is unique and spread out across the grounds. The family house is at the very back, a good fifteen-minute walk along a narrow path. There are also two treehouses, where you can stay ten meters above the ground among the treetops. At the end of the afternoon, I take a walk through the Bigodi Swamp wetlands, close to the lodge. Many monkey species live here. James guides me. Soon I spot a red-tailed monkey—a very shy creature. The red colobus troop is more visible, jumping from branch to branch. The striking Great Blue Turaco also appears several times but disappears just as quickly. In the end, I see four of the eight monkey species found in the Bigodi wetlands. In the evening, there is local music at the restaurant. It’s nice, but not particularly special. As I am escorted back to my cottage at night, it starts to rain. This makes using the outdoor toilet at my cottage even trickier.